Woven lives

We stumbled upon some pictures of Nate Berkus apartment in Chicago, a very nice space indeed, and we rediscovered a woven photograph by the late Fernando Bengoechea.

We met Fernando in New York many years ago (1998 maybe), he was working in a photo shoot for a friend of mine. We were both from Argentina, the exact same age, we were born in the same city and went to the same places as we were growing up. Talk about coincidences...He was a fantastic photographer and such a nice guy!

The woven photographs are painstakingly cut and then woven back together, adding this way a new depth and converting them into works of art.

You can visit the website for more information. His brother Marcelo is keeping Fernando's work alive.

www.fernandobengoechea.com

Patagonia, land of dreams

Everything started with a glass of red wine. Piero Incisa della Rocchetta (of the italian family behind Sassicaia, the great Super Tuscan wine) tasted in New York a fantastic Pinot Noir from a vineyard in Patagonia and he fell in love. It was a bottle of Humberto Canale by the danish winemaker Hans Vinding-Diers. Amazed by the quality of wines Hans was being able to make, he decided to start his own winery.

After a long and difficult search, he found a nearly abandoned vineyard in the Province of Rio Negro, with Pinot Noir vines that were over 70 years old (something unusual, because Argentina is land of Malbec). The funny thing is, the vineyard's owner initially refused to sell Piero the land. He told him that any commercial venture would fail. Piero respectfully ignored the prediction of bankruptcy and made a full commitment to follow his dream by buying the vineyard. Bodega Chacra was born.

The small vineyard from 1932 is the foundation for the winery. There are also parcels planted in 1955 and 1967, and another one with new plantings. Harvested manually, the vines are fermented naturally in large round cement vats with the minimum of intervention before being put into the oak barrels. Fermentation takes place naturally in the following six months, and the wines are then left undisturbed before being bottled without any filtration.

The results? Three of the most extraordinary and unique wines in Argentina: Chacra 32, Chacra 55 and Barda. They are easily the best Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy.

Andree Putman once said : "To not dare is to have already lost. We should seek out ambitious, even unrealistic projects…because things only happen when we dream".

We couldn't agree more.

Buenos Aires Museums, part 1

Buenos Aires offers an interesting selection of Museums and Art Galleries, so after all the shopping has been done and all the red meat has been eaten, art lovers can spend a few hours getting to know the city in a different, more intellectual way. Some Museums are unique and local, while others are more international and reflect a clear European influence.


Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Avenida del Libertador 1473
This Museum houses the best collection in Argentina. You have the big Impressionists here---Monet, Cezanne, Degas among others ---and also the work of amazing Argentine artists, like Angel della Valle, Eduardo Sivori, Quiros and others. Don't miss the Bemberg Collection, a gift of late film director Maria Luisa Bemberg. After you are done, walk to nearby cafe Rond Point for a quick lunch (although it lost all of its charm after being "modernized", is still a good spot).

MALBA
Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415
This Museum showcases Latin American Art, so you will find Tarsila do Amaral, Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Joaquin Torres-Garcia, Emilio di Cavalcanti... Antonio Berni, Xul Solar...the list goes on an on. The building itself is a very interesting example of contemporary architecture. The cafe/restaurant is very good, and the Museum shop has an interesting selection of books and gifts.

Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
Avenida del Libertador 1902
Originally the Errazuriz Residence, this magnificent house has been turned into a small Museum filled with antiques and Oriental Art. It is worth a visit just to roam in the space and appreciate how was life a hundred years ago for the well-off. There is an outdoor cafe (Croque Madame) that we highly recommend.

Museo Fortabat
Olga Cossettini 141
This new addition to the city's cultural life is located in Puerto Madero, in a building designed by award winning firm Rafael Viñoly Architects. It holds the magnificent private collection of Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, one of Latin America's richest women. After the visit, you can walk along the river and cross the Puente de la Mujer, a bridge designed by mega famous architect Santiago Calatrava.

Museo de los Ninos
Avenida Corrientes 3247 - Level 2
Although not a traditional museum, it offers multiple booths---sponsored by big corporations---where children can reenact real life experiences and learn at the same time: anchoring a TV news, taking care of supermarket shelves or assisting a baby doll at a hospital. It is located inside the Abasto Shopping Mall, and it is great to keep kids busy for a couple of hours.

Museo Evita
Lafinur 2988
Everything you always wanted to know about Eva Peron's personal life is here, so you can have a better understanding of this fascinating and controversial figure. There is also a very good restaurant in the premises.

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernandez Blanco
Suipacha 1422
This museum is in a quiet street in the Retiro neighbourhood, in an old Spanish style mansion. It holds a number of antiques and old religious pieces, and it has a fantastic courtyard. It is located only half a block from the Sofitel hotel, where you can have a snack before or after the visit.

Another post with Art galleries and more museums, coming up...

Eugenio Aguirre

As our readers already know, we work along Argentinian furniture maker Eugenio Aguirre as image consultants for their different stores. We've been together for a long time, and in all those years we witnessed the growth of the Company---they opened several stores in the city--- and also the birth of a new line that was launched last year, called Naturaleza Aguirre.

Eugenio Aguirre manufactures the best quality furniture you can find in Argentina. They use leather and parchment---in the tradition of Jean-Michel Frank--- along precious wood and metal (the table tops of some wonderful dining and coffee tables are covered in ebonized bronze).

They sell in different countries, and there are also some projects in the making in New York City (a boutique hotel in Soho is one of them).

Our last collaboration was the new branch Naturaleza Aguirre is opening soon in the Buenos Aires Design Center. This time, we were into a beach mood (think a vacation in St Barths and you get the picture), so the shop recreates the atmosphere of a cool home in a romantic and exotic location.

Naturaleza Aguirre

Buenos Aires Design

Avenida Pueyrredon 2501 - phone 5777.6058

Lake Viedma

Today, we would like to be there...

The Tango Lesson

When you visit Buenos Aires, it doesn't really matter if you are an expert or a beginner: the most important thing is to fall under the spell of tango and just dance!. Because it is the only way to discover the real spirit of the city.

We did our research and have these recommendations for you, tango lovers that sent so many emails asking for where to go. Our choices are:

Escuela Argentina de Tango
Viamonte and San Martin (Downtown) phone 4312 4990
This is THE most important school in the country(and maybe in the world). Located in the Centro Cultural Borges. They offer individual lessons for all levels during the week, and intermediate and advanced levels over the weekend.

La Viruta
Armenia 1366 (Palermo) phone 4774 6357
Legendary place when you can really admire the best dancers. You will also discover the rules of "cabeceo": an almost imperceptible head movement from the man to a woman, who can say yes or no (usually looking somewhere else).
There is also a restaurant open until 3 AM (typical argentine cuisine, heavy on meats). There is also a vegetarian option (almost a heresy in Argentina!).

La Academia de Ana María Schapira
Dr. Angel Peluffo 3909, third floor (Almagro) phone 4981 6869
You will not find a more impressive resume like the one of Ana Maria Schapira. To visit her school is a must.

La Barrica
Magallanes 845 (Boca) phone 4301 9197
There was a famous composer that wrote: "Tango is a sad thought that is danced".
But it could also be fun! Like in this place: an informal atmosphere, lots of wine and dance. Charming.

Tango Brujo
Esmeralda 754 (Downtown) phone 4325 8264
One of the most important schools in the city, it is home to festivals and international competitions. You will see here some of the world's most renowned Maestros.
They also sell tango shoes, accessories, Cd's...

El Niño Bien
Humberto I 1462 (Boca) phone 4483 2588
The first impression you get when you step into this very well known place, is that at any moment Carlos Gardel can go out on the stage to perform one of his famous (and somehow sad) tangos. In truth, men and women here are seated at their tables waiting for the moment to go dancing and forget about the mediocre food.

Esquina Carlos Gardel
Carlos Gardel 3200 (Almagro) phone 4876 6363
Shows always start here with an homage to Carlos Gardel and his moving melodies. «Mi Buenos Aires Querido», the composer used to sing...and his words resound powerful in this elegant space. The performances are always first class.

We believe this is a good start to help you choose the right milonga! Have fun.

Hasta la vista, Negra...

Mercedes Sosa died today in Buenos Aires. She was 74.

Tango

We read on the paper:
Tango was declared part of the world's cultural heritage by the United Nations on Wednesday and granted the international seal of approval Argentina and Uruguay have long sought for the dramatic dance and its sensual moves.

We know most people probably have this stereotypical misconception of the dance: a good looking woman---shiny, tight split dress along with some killer stilettos and a sensual body ---spinning cheek-to-cheek very fast across a dance hall with a good looking man---tuxedo of course, rose clenched between his teeth---kicking and hurling back and forth...And that, my friends, is the ultimate cliche.

Reality could be much more complicated than a movie or a TV show. The reality and meaning of tango goes beyond that cliche. A history that goes back over a hundred years. A history of poor European immigrants and their American dreams, of cheap bordellos and accordions... A tale full of sad stories (usually about heartaches related to love relationships that went sour), family ties, homesickness, life in the poor suburbs...

In Argentina you dance tango slowly. It is a sensual dance, of course, and it takes time to master. Nowadays, there are thousands learning the steps. A new generation that includes even Japanese and Germans (the biggest fans) along people from all over the world.

They are leaning how to dance a sad feeling. A passion. That is tango.

Roots of a land

There is an area in the furniture world that is a little difficult to understand. Some people call it "rustic"or "lodge style"or maybe "cabin style". And then there is another version, an Argentinian one, that is handcrafted by the indigenous people (that is, the ones that were there before the Spaniards arrived). That craftsmanship is still alive, although barely surviving.

Ricardo Paz always thought this tradition needed to be kept alive. He opened a store in Palermo Viejo called Arte Etnico. This is a neighbourhood that has a small scale, full of old houses, trees, blue skies. In the store he showcases a fascinating collection of furniture, textiles and objects that some people could call "rustic". Trees become animals, branches become screens, wood panels covered in parchment become tables...Each piece is unique of course, and it shows the slight imperfections of a handmade object.

Antique rugs and textiles, colourful and happy, cover walls and sofas. Small chairs with seats made out of cowhide hang from the ceiling...A magical space, as unique and original as the objects exhibited.

Ricardo Paz

El Salvador 4656 - phone 4832-0516

Buenos Aires bars, part 1

When visiting Buenos Aires most people find that porteños have dinner really late for international standards (after 10 PM is the usual thing when going to restaurants). Going for dinner at 8 or 8.30 PM is something unheard of.

Even at 9 restaurants are empty, or the only people there are tourists.

Therefore, a good way to kill a couple of hours before eating that steak is to go to a nice bar and have a drink. There are plenty of places, so we will start with a few:

Milión
Paraná 1048 (Barrio Norte)
This is still a good place to go (it opened a few years back). The place is stunning: an old mansion converted into a couple of restaurants and bars, including an amazing terrace and a patio. Great cocktail list and an international clientele make this bar/restaurant a must.


Ocho7Ocho
Thames 878 (Villa Crespo)
Behind the unmarked door in this up-and-coming neighbourhood you will find a great spot, with some of the best cocktails in town. A little out of the way, it is great when you grow tired of Palermo Viejo and want to try something different (and very good).


Supersoul

Baez 252 (Las Cañitas)
This place rocks. Always good, always crowded, always fun.

Mundo Bizarro

Serrano 1222 (Palermo Viejo)
Still around after a few years, this dim reddish bar still has very good cocktails. Hit or miss.

Congo
Honduras 5329 (Palermo Viejo)
Tucked away besides the railways tracks, this is a great pre-club bar. Having an enormous outdoor space is one of the best features (especially in a sticky summer night)


If you want something a bit more tranquil or refined, especially if you are exhausted after a long day of walking around the city , there are other options. We like the Old World atmosphere of the Bar at the Alvear Palace Hotel for a chic cocktail. Or maybe the Oak Room at the Duhau, where you can appreciate centuries old paneling (brought back from France when the house was built 75 years ago) while sipping that fancy scotch.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week a la Argentina in pictures

We had a great time last night in the Argentina Designer's show.
Absolutely packed, visitors from Buenos Aires (among them international top Model Valeria Mazza)and lots of press (Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Vanidades Latin America, Oprah, Elle, WWD...) We were talking with gracious Mary Alice Stephenson, who really enjoyed the show.

The team behind this amazing event (the Consulate of Argentina in New York and A. Cicognani Communications plus the unbelievable stylist Amanda Ross) as well as the designers Benito Fernandez, Cardon, Eufemia, Min Agostini and Zitta delivered an impeccable performance, that was truly enjoyed by the crowd.

Our pictures are worth much more than we can say...