Recoleta Cemetery

It is inevitable to end up in the Recoleta Cemetery when walking around in Buenos Aires. Sooner rather than later, a visit to this tourist destination is a must for a lot of reasons: it is located in a fancy neighbourhood with a lot of interesting attractions, it has the mausoleum of the Duarte family where Eva Peron is buried, it is a bit romantic (and so different from other cemeteries around the world) and finally the mausoleums are absolutely breathtaking (while some are in good shape a lot of them are in a sorry state of disrepair).

It also reflects an era when Argentina was a powerful and wealthy country, so people in life as well as in death wanted to show off their splendid style and the abundance of money. Inside you find an argentinian Who's Who: presidents, influential families, scientists... Everybody who was somebody is buried there.

The layout is organized like a city grid, so you walk through streets showcasing beautiful "houses"---yes, it is like a City of the Dead--- along statues in marble and bronze, trees and probably 2,000,000 cats.

It will take you a good hour to roam around this place, and it's really worth it (have a memory card empty in your camera when you get there...trust us, we couldn't stop taking photographs...)

Bienvenidos al Paraiso

Summertime in Buenos Aires is a little oppressive. Usually January and February are the worst months to be in the city---most people take their summer vacations on January---so besides the heat and the high humidity nobody is there. That could be bad or good, it really depends on your mood. We've had some wonderful times when the city is half empty (for instance, restaurants and bars just for yourself is not a bad thing).

But if you are tired of the cement and want to rest in touch with Nature ---without going to Punta del Este---there is an alternative in the nearby town of Carmelo (Uruguay): the Four Seasons Resort. It takes a short plane ride and you are there, in the middle of a wonderful pine and eucalypt forest on the bank of the Rio de la Plata...surrounded by wonderful buildings in stone and wood that look like they belong in Bali.

The service is impeccable--- Uruguayans are extremely polite and relaxed--- and so is the Spa. There are tennis courts, a gym, a golf course, a wonderful club house...

This place is great even in winter time, because all the rooms and bungalows feature wood burning fireplaces... great for that romantic getaway.

Welcome to Paradise.

Lisbeth and Co.

We spent a great weekend Upstate New York last summer in company of our good friend Lisbeth McCoy and her lovely family.

Originally from Denmark, she came to the States a long time ago. We met Lisbeth at her store in New York ("Lisbeth and Co" on Elizabeth St in Nolita), a small space full of unbelievable vintage furniture, lamps and decorative objects from Denmark.

That store was a magnet for designers and famous faces, all of them attracted by the impeccable taste of the owner. She is a talented Interior Designer, with a very strict eye for details and a clear vision of what she likes (and especially, of what she does not like).

Her house Upstate is an extension of her persona. A small and intimate retreat, peaceful and warm, perfect for those long meals surrounded by family and friends...

We wanted to share with our readers a few pictures we took that weekend, so everybody can enjoy a bit of this Country Paradise.

Eugenio Aguirre

As our readers already know, we work along Argentinian furniture maker Eugenio Aguirre as image consultants for their different stores. We've been together for a long time, and in all those years we witnessed the growth of the Company---they opened several stores in the city--- and also the birth of a new line that was launched last year, called Naturaleza Aguirre.

Eugenio Aguirre manufactures the best quality furniture you can find in Argentina. They use leather and parchment---in the tradition of Jean-Michel Frank--- along precious wood and metal (the table tops of some wonderful dining and coffee tables are covered in ebonized bronze).

They sell in different countries, and there are also some projects in the making in New York City (a boutique hotel in Soho is one of them).

Our last collaboration was the new branch Naturaleza Aguirre is opening soon in the Buenos Aires Design Center. This time, we were into a beach mood (think a vacation in St Barths and you get the picture), so the shop recreates the atmosphere of a cool home in a romantic and exotic location.

Naturaleza Aguirre

Buenos Aires Design

Avenida Pueyrredon 2501 - phone 5777.6058

Lake Viedma

Today, we would like to be there...

Shopping in Recoleta

If you are based in Recoleta when visiting Buenos Aires---either in one of the big Hotels or in a rented apartment--- there are plenty of stores in the area. A bit more upscale than their Palermo Viejo counterparts, stores here are usually expensive ---location is everything: Hermes and Louis Vuitton are found in the area so you know what to expect. For our well heeled readers, some tips below:

Tramando

Rodríguez Peña 1973 - phone 4811-0465

Owned by Martin Churba---a multitalented textile designer---the avant-garde clothes here are multicoloured and extremely cleverly designed. You will be amused by the intricately woven fabrics and the variety of materials used in the striking pieces on display.


Breeders

Posadas 1269 - phone 4815-6326

This small store is a good place if you are into some serious mink, fox and chinchilla furs. They can customized all their pieces for mena and women. Spectacular crocodile and lizard bags.


Evangelina Bomparola

Avenida Presidente Quintana 20 - phone 4814-2553

A small Recoleta shop that is full of cocktail dresses and unique evening gowns ---everything here is made of pure silk, wool, cashmere ---so you know you are getting just the best.


Arandu

Ayacucho 1924 - phone 4800-1575
A two-story shop selling all things Argentinian. From housewares---alpaca silver trays and mates--- to sporting goods made by artisans from the argentinian Northwest, the store definitely caters to aficionados of country style. Bags and boots are of very good quality, as well as the selction of hunting and polo gear displayed on the second floor. Amazing saddles.

Rapsodia

Patio Bullrich Shopping Mall - phone 4814-7458
The store showcases a feminine and romantic line of clothing: sweaters, sundresses and boots and a vast selection of jeans.

De Maria

Libertad 1655 - phone 4815-5001
Interesting shoe store displaying unique and creative numbers.


Celedonio
Castex 3225 - phone 4803-7598

A few minutes taxi ride from Recoleta, this great store--- where architect turned jewelry designer Celedonio Lohidoy sells ornate pieces made of moonstone, labradorite,baroque pearls and coral, along with some featuring feathers and wire--- is a haven in the chaos of the city. Take your time when choosing one of his designs. The intricate pieces are really magnificent. (Lohidoy also created the brand of toiletries found at the Duhau Hotel.)

After all this shopping we are sure your energy level already dropped, so head over to La Rambla---corner of Posadas and Ayacucho---for one of their famous lomitos completos (a sandwich you will never forget...). If the weather is nice, sit outside and relax... You know, sometimes life is so good!

The Tango Lesson

When you visit Buenos Aires, it doesn't really matter if you are an expert or a beginner: the most important thing is to fall under the spell of tango and just dance!. Because it is the only way to discover the real spirit of the city.

We did our research and have these recommendations for you, tango lovers that sent so many emails asking for where to go. Our choices are:

Escuela Argentina de Tango
Viamonte and San Martin (Downtown) phone 4312 4990
This is THE most important school in the country(and maybe in the world). Located in the Centro Cultural Borges. They offer individual lessons for all levels during the week, and intermediate and advanced levels over the weekend.

La Viruta
Armenia 1366 (Palermo) phone 4774 6357
Legendary place when you can really admire the best dancers. You will also discover the rules of "cabeceo": an almost imperceptible head movement from the man to a woman, who can say yes or no (usually looking somewhere else).
There is also a restaurant open until 3 AM (typical argentine cuisine, heavy on meats). There is also a vegetarian option (almost a heresy in Argentina!).

La Academia de Ana María Schapira
Dr. Angel Peluffo 3909, third floor (Almagro) phone 4981 6869
You will not find a more impressive resume like the one of Ana Maria Schapira. To visit her school is a must.

La Barrica
Magallanes 845 (Boca) phone 4301 9197
There was a famous composer that wrote: "Tango is a sad thought that is danced".
But it could also be fun! Like in this place: an informal atmosphere, lots of wine and dance. Charming.

Tango Brujo
Esmeralda 754 (Downtown) phone 4325 8264
One of the most important schools in the city, it is home to festivals and international competitions. You will see here some of the world's most renowned Maestros.
They also sell tango shoes, accessories, Cd's...

El Niño Bien
Humberto I 1462 (Boca) phone 4483 2588
The first impression you get when you step into this very well known place, is that at any moment Carlos Gardel can go out on the stage to perform one of his famous (and somehow sad) tangos. In truth, men and women here are seated at their tables waiting for the moment to go dancing and forget about the mediocre food.

Esquina Carlos Gardel
Carlos Gardel 3200 (Almagro) phone 4876 6363
Shows always start here with an homage to Carlos Gardel and his moving melodies. «Mi Buenos Aires Querido», the composer used to sing...and his words resound powerful in this elegant space. The performances are always first class.

We believe this is a good start to help you choose the right milonga! Have fun.

Hasta la vista, Negra...

Mercedes Sosa died today in Buenos Aires. She was 74.

Doctor's prescription

Apotheke is one of our favourite bars in New York. The name itself exudes Old World mystery...Apotheke means a pharmacy or a drugstore, but also a place to prepare potions and elixirs.

Located on a small street just one block long in Chinatown, in a spot with a long and interesting list of previous tenants---opium den, Chinese opera house, dim sum parlor--- this dimly lit space has a dramatic atmosphere. A very theatrical bar, lots of antique medicine bottles, comfortable sofas...

The cocktail list (actually, it is "A selection of House Prescriptions") features Stress Relievers, Pain Killers, Aphrodisiacs and even Euphoric Enhancers...We were witnesses of the magical powers of a few of these potions. They work.

We really felt we were not in New York anymore. We were maybe in Montmartre, circa 1891. Toulouse Lautrec was joining us for a drink.

Apotheke

9 Doyers Street

p 212.406.0111

Keep shopping in Buenos Aires...

After our first post about interesting shops in Buenos Aires, we have been contacted by several readers asking the same question: "Why didn't you write about my favorite shop...?" or "We found this place and is sooooo good..."

Therefore, we added these stores to the list:

For Women:

Santesteban

Galeria Promenade - Alvear Palace Hotel

First class shoes and bags in a small shop inside the Hotel Alvear (the most classic of all hotels in South America). Everybody who is somebody shops here (we wrote about this place here).We spotted their shoes at the last Fashion Week in New York.

Min Agostini

Libertad 1532 - phone 4813 0805

An Architect turned Fashion Designer, her clothes are extremely interesting in texture and shape. High quality and unbelievable craftsmanship. Her clothes sell in Buenos Aires, Europe and New York. She is one of the Designers showing her talent in Bryant Park for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week 2009 (read more here).

Pablo Ramirez

Peru 587 - phone 4342 7154

Elegant and timeless, mostly in black so new yorkers can shop with confidence: clothes will always be in style.

Juan Perez

Marcelo T. de Alvear 1441 - phone 4815 8442

Vintage at its best. A perfect place to get lost for hours, knowing you will fond something truly amazing. Convenient downtown location (clothes for men and women).

For men:

La Dolfina

Avenida Alvear 1315 - phone 4815 2698

This is a true polo lifestyle brand, discreet and high quality. Expensive. Another store in Galerias Pacifico Shopping Mall.

Guido

Avenida Quintana 333

Handmade and very conservative shoes of extremely good quality. Great gifts for dad (or grandpa).

More to come...Wait until our next post, because in Buenos Aires shopping never ends.