Les surprises du Chef

San Telmo is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires. It is where ancient buildings still stand today, after a few centuries of pollution and neglect. It became somehow a trendy place to buy an apartment, or open a store, a while ago but obviously it is not a location as commercial or high end as Palermo Soho or Recoleta...yet.

Property value went up, some cleaning (and also restoration) of the buildings is taking place so everything is looking much better than a few years back where garbage and squatters made the area a dangerous mess. Everything is improving, slowly but steadily.

Defensa street goes from Plaza de Mayo (of Evita fame) to the flea market in Plaza Dorrego, and all of  those blocks--too many!!!-- have become an open air market. Not as charming as one would hope but still alive and full of people. But unfortunately for all these tourists and locals alike, the question of where to have lunch (a good one) remained unanswered for many years.

But fortunately for us (we really love to eat well) there is a restaurant that changed our bad nourished Sundays in San Telmo: La Panaderia de Pablo, which opened some time ago thanks to the genius of famous chef Pablo Massey. In a wonderful space we had many great meals, always tasty, always argentine, always different. The patio is a fantastic option for those balmy days also, or if you like smoking and can't wait for that ciggy after your stake.

La Panaderia de Pablo
Defensa 269
San Telmo
Ph. 4331 6728

Downtown Buenos Aires

Downtown Buenos Aires or Microcentro has a small but very interesting hotel menu. We were very happy to see in recent years a couple of magnificent old buildings restored and relaunched as fancy places to stay. The centre of town attracts a lot of tourists, and staying in the area is not a bad choice. It is very quiet at night (sometimes too quiet) and you can walk everywhere.

There are a few good restaurants and bars, so you won't feel deprived of fun. But definitely don't expect a lot of activities in the area after dark, because this is the Financial District anyhow.

Our choices are:

725 Continental

Avenida Roque Saenz Peña 725 - phone (+54.11) 4131.8000

This used to be the famous Continental Hotel, built in 1927 by Alejandro Bustillo, the famous argentine architect---probably the best argentine architect ever--- and it was a very traditional spot for years. Things change though, and after years of neglect it was reborn under a different name and a major renovation---sort of major plastic surgery. The results? A funky and modern place, friendly staff and rooms with plenty of amenities (a bit on the small side...). It could be a bit quiet if you are looking for action...

562 Nogaro

Avenida Julio Argentino Roca 562

Owned by the same Company behind the 725 Continental, it is a good and more economical choice if you want to be near Plaza de Mayo and within walking distance of San Telmo and its wonderful attractions. Small rooms but good breakfast buffet.

Esplendor Buenos Aires

San Martin 780 - phone (+54.11) 5217.5799

Located next to Galerias Pacifico Shopping Mall and Florida Street, this hotel is closer to Retiro neighbourhood--- Plaza San Martin is a few blocks away, and it is a great park to relax under the sun for a few minutes--- and the area offers more activities at night, so noise could be an issue. Big rooms and good service make this place a good base to explore Puerto Madero and surrounding areas.

When it's time to eat there are a few restaurants in the area that are very good. We like Dadá (San Martin 947), the steaks there never disappoint and the artsy decor makes this funky bistro a must if you are in the area.

If you are just tired of the red meat thing, try the japanese-peruvian fusion at Sipan (Paraguay 624). It is really an excellent and consistent restaurant that delivers great creations. Try the tiraditos de maracuya and the awesome ceviche.

Another interesting place is Empire (Tres Sargentos 427), a thai restaurant on a small and quiet pedestrian street with a good menu and an intimate (although a bit dark) atmosphere. We like the curries and the breaded shrimps

.

Tancat (Paraguay 645) is a tapas restaurant with a good selection of typical spanish dishes. A small place, it can feel a bit cramped.

Our favourite place for a tasty snack is the Bar at the Marriott Plaza Hotel (Florida 1005). Don't let the name fool you: this was a very traditional and conservative hotel when it was built a hundred years ago. After being bought by the Marriott chain unfortunately lost most of its charm, but the Bar is still a great place to relax after a long walk Downtown. We love the tostado sandwiches and the secluded and cozy ambiance. A must.

There are also some good bars in the area, but that is material for another post...

A proposito di Roma

If you follow our blog, you already know we appreciate good food.

Unpretentious, pretentious, local, international, from street vendors or five star restaurants...we tried them all. And all we can say is we like good food, and it doesn't really matter where it's coming from. We know it's easy to say but it is so difficult to find...

A particular place we always go back to when in Rome is Trattoria Gusto. It expanded from its original location, so it's getting bigger and more interesting. Restaurant, pizzeria, wine bar, they have a bookstore and a wine store as well as a cheese store.

The food is honest and good, tasty and unpretentious. A very warm atmosphere in which to unwind after a long day walking down the city.

They are located near the Mausoleum of Augustus, and you can check their website for the different locations (all of them in the neighbourhood).

Kitchen Symphony

There is nothing more hypnotic than staring at a chef when he is working in his kitchen while his restaurant is packed.

Lots of people moving fast. Heat, speed, knives, flames...with one person in charge, the director of the orchestra. The director of this culinary symphony is George Mendes. And Aldea is his restaurant.

And it is playing an ode to Portugal, in a very New York kind of way. We loved this restaurant with its open kitchen. People can see everything that happens as the staff prepares meals—especially our meal!

As if there wasn’t enough stress in a restaurant kitchen!

Buenos Aires restaurants: our picks

We are always asked, when people go to Buenos Aires, where to eat. That is a tricky question, because it is always a personal point of view.

But there are some general guidelines. First, and most important, avoid touristy places. It sounds easy but it is not. Thanks to some publications and a lot of international tourists, apparently there are some places not to miss (places where locals go, generally for good meat).

So, more and more tourists start going to this restaurants. Therefore prices raise. Therefore locals don't go there anymore. Then these places for locals become places for tourists!

Our choices for locals are:

Miranda Meat and pastas in Palermo Viejo.

Oui Oui Excelent! Informal brunches are the best.

Olsen - Gorriti 5870 Phone 4776-7677 Scandinavia meets South America

Bar Uriarte Mediterranean cuisine - Brick oven great for meats and fish.

Grappa - El Salvador 5802 Phone 4899-2577 Ultra-thin crust pizzas

Bereber - Armenia 1880 Phone 4833-5662 Moroccan cuisine. Great terrace.

Almacen Secreto The real deal with authentic argentine dishes. Fantastic!

Dominga - Honduras 5618 Phone 4771-4443 Mediterranean plus sushi.

Museo Evita - J.M. Gutierrez 3926 Phone 4800-1599

Croque Madame - Av Libertador 1902 Phone 4806-8639 - Great for outdoor meals in a chic Museum

Fervor Great seafood barbecue and meats. The best choice in Recoleta.

We think this is a good start! Have fun and remember to go for dinner after 9 PM or you will dine alone.