Tarquino, or how Recoleta got its groove back.

Not long ago, the only choice if you were in Recoleta and wanted a good drink was to go to any of the five star hotels in the area. We particularly liked the bar at the Hyatt Duhau on Avenida Alvear, but honestly after a while we needed a new place. And then, voila!, one day we discovered Tarquino, or maybe Tarquino discovered us, who knows.

We go there quite often, the bar area before the main room (a glass enclosed patio with a tree and everything) is our favorite place to hang out with friends. We usually end up having our meals there, a more casual setting for our taste. The menu is argentine, but very creative and full of surprises, so you can say good bye to the usual steak for one night.

Tarquino restaurant

Rodriguez Peña 1967

Ph. 6091.2160

I love cafe

After being in New York for so many years, we know a thing or two about coffee shops, cafes or whatever you like to call them. Considering the lack of space in Manhattan, they tend to be small, very small or tiny.

Downtown, where the charming ones we like are located, around Tribeca, Nolita and further east, we can find our favorite places to enjoy capuccinos and some sweets.

So, when a group of three friends decided to open the Argentine version of the kind of places we love (the Downtown cafe), it was very clear for us the way to go. Small? No problem, a few tables and chairs, a banquette, a couple of counters... We also had this idea of throwing a bit of London in the mix, especially because one of the owners spends part of the year in England with her polo player husband. And she adores London.

And then it was the color...Everything in the store under 3 feet high is painted red, everything above that is a shade of old parchment very shiny.

"I love cafe", that's the name of this magical place. Coffee to go and fresh food, good music, nice people in the heart of Recoleta. What's not to love?

Rodriguez Peña 1714

Buenos Aires

Shopping in Recoleta

If you are based in Recoleta when visiting Buenos Aires---either in one of the big Hotels or in a rented apartment--- there are plenty of stores in the area. A bit more upscale than their Palermo Viejo counterparts, stores here are usually expensive ---location is everything: Hermes and Louis Vuitton are found in the area so you know what to expect. For our well heeled readers, some tips below:

Tramando

Rodríguez Peña 1973 - phone 4811-0465

Owned by Martin Churba---a multitalented textile designer---the avant-garde clothes here are multicoloured and extremely cleverly designed. You will be amused by the intricately woven fabrics and the variety of materials used in the striking pieces on display.


Breeders

Posadas 1269 - phone 4815-6326

This small store is a good place if you are into some serious mink, fox and chinchilla furs. They can customized all their pieces for mena and women. Spectacular crocodile and lizard bags.


Evangelina Bomparola

Avenida Presidente Quintana 20 - phone 4814-2553

A small Recoleta shop that is full of cocktail dresses and unique evening gowns ---everything here is made of pure silk, wool, cashmere ---so you know you are getting just the best.


Arandu

Ayacucho 1924 - phone 4800-1575
A two-story shop selling all things Argentinian. From housewares---alpaca silver trays and mates--- to sporting goods made by artisans from the argentinian Northwest, the store definitely caters to aficionados of country style. Bags and boots are of very good quality, as well as the selction of hunting and polo gear displayed on the second floor. Amazing saddles.

Rapsodia

Patio Bullrich Shopping Mall - phone 4814-7458
The store showcases a feminine and romantic line of clothing: sweaters, sundresses and boots and a vast selection of jeans.

De Maria

Libertad 1655 - phone 4815-5001
Interesting shoe store displaying unique and creative numbers.


Celedonio
Castex 3225 - phone 4803-7598

A few minutes taxi ride from Recoleta, this great store--- where architect turned jewelry designer Celedonio Lohidoy sells ornate pieces made of moonstone, labradorite,baroque pearls and coral, along with some featuring feathers and wire--- is a haven in the chaos of the city. Take your time when choosing one of his designs. The intricate pieces are really magnificent. (Lohidoy also created the brand of toiletries found at the Duhau Hotel.)

After all this shopping we are sure your energy level already dropped, so head over to La Rambla---corner of Posadas and Ayacucho---for one of their famous lomitos completos (a sandwich you will never forget...). If the weather is nice, sit outside and relax... You know, sometimes life is so good!

Bringing back La Belle Epoque

A long time ago Argentina was a wealthy country. Wheat and cattle made the landowners rich beyond description. And that wealth made them travel the world. Of course, the "world" back then was only Europe. Specifically France, considered the place to look for inspiration when it was time to dress, talk, or build. They went and they loved it.

Meanwhile back in Argentina, the Argentines craved living in a city like Paris. The only problem was Buenos Aires was not as sophisticated as Paris. The solution? Tear down the simpler, Spanish style buildings and rebuild, in a French grandiose style. So they built their townhouses, real palaces in some cases, new public buildings, new avenues...everything was magnificent, everything was tres French. And so the cliche "Paris of South America" was born. Oh, La Belle Epoque!

A hundred years later, we see some of those magnificent buildings still around, especially in Recoleta. One of these buildings, a fantastic brownstone (they called them "petit hotels") was sold a few years ago. It was covered for a long time with a scaffolding net with a banner on it. We feared the worst.

But like in a film in which the ending is so good you cannot believe it, once the net was removed we were thrilled to see that nothing happened to the outside of the building. It was the same, only polished and lovingly restored to its former glory.

This building has become Algodon Mansion, a hotel soon to open. The interiors look really glamorous, cosmopolitan, exclusive. With only ten rooms, it almost feels like a private club in London or any international capital. It has a Spa, a restaurant, and the Rooftop a pool like no one else has in Buenos Aires. The architects in charge of the renovation, Heusch Inc., are well known for an impeccable taste. The developers behind this great idea have even bigger, more ambitious projects in Mendoza, the wine region.

We cannot wait for the opening this November. Think, Polo season, warm weather, Buenos Aires is a party. The right time for bringing back La Belle Epoque.

Up in Recoleta

We renovated this penthouse in Recoleta for an American eager to have a pied-a-terre in Buenos Aires. It was a long and very difficult process, considering that the apartment had a story of bad renovations in the past. We started from scratch, and it took us over two years.

The apartment has a big social area, which is a key element when you entertain a lot. We wanted to create a mix between the New York aesthetic of the owner and the location in Argentina. So the white shell houses furniture by local designers (Eugenio Aguirre, of course, our favorite) in a subtle balance with some vintage Mies van der Rohe chairs we found in an Antiques dealer and some rugs our client bought in Istanbul and New York.

We also found a Jean-Michel Frank inspired side table (he worked in Argentina right before his death, so there are still a few remnants of his presence around). A set of nesting tables from the 60's in bright orange add a touch of color and happiness.

A big painting by Gonzalo Papantonakis found its place in the dining room, and some of Diane Detalle are scattered around the rest of the apartment.

A working fireplace, a bookcase, an octagonal office and a bar...the perfect pad.