The Chukker

I wanna hold your hand

2011-12-12T15:59:00.001-05:00

We were invited to the launch party to celebrate the release of Marina Frederking's album, VERME.
It was a fantastic meeting of beautiful people, good food and open bar that lasted well into the wee hours.
Marina is an extremely talented and sexy artist, and in this album she is showing that a cover version is much, much more than a new performance of a popular song. She is indeed showing her true colors in all 10 tracks, really touching our souls with her warm voice. Our pick? "I wanna hold your hand"...

You can get an idea of how exciting the performance was clicking on this link
http://soundcloud.com/marinafrederking/sets/verme/

Marina Frederking
VERME

Patagonia, land of dreams

2011-12-11T17:07:00.000-05:00

Everything started with a glass of red wine. Piero Incisa della Rocchetta (of the italian family behind Sassicaia, the great Super Tuscan wine) tasted in New York a fantastic Pinot Noir from a vineyard in Patagonia and he fell in love. It was a bottle of Humberto Canale by the danish winemaker Hans Vinding-Diers. Amazed by the quality of wines Hans was being able to make, he decided to start his own winery.

After a long and difficult search, he found a nearly abandoned vineyard in the Province of Rio Negro, with Pinot Noir vines that were over 70 years old (something unusual, because Argentina is land of Malbec). The funny thing is, the vineyard's owner initially refused to sell Piero the land. He told him that any commercial venture would fail. Piero respectfully ignored the prediction of bankruptcy and made a full commitment to follow his dream by buying the vineyard. Bodega Chacra was born.

The small vineyard from 1932 is the foundation for the winery. There are also parcels planted in 1955 and 1967, and another one with new plantings. Harvested manually, the vines are fermented naturally in large round cement vats with the minimum of intervention before being put into the oak barrels. Fermentation takes place naturally in the following six months, and the wines are then left undisturbed before being bottled without any filtration.

The results? Three of the most extraordinary and unique wines in Argentina: Chacra 32, Chacra 55 and Barda. They are easily the best Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy.

Andree Putman once said : "To not dare is to have already lost. We should seek out ambitious, even unrealistic projects…because things only happen when we dream".

We couldn't agree more.

Alrio

2011-10-17T10:47:00.009-04:00

One of our latest projects is the sales showroom and model apartment for ALRIO, the most important real estate development in Argentina.

It comprises five residential buildings, office buildings, a shopping mall, a stadium, an open air Auditorium, a new park...the list goes on and on.

Alrio is located in Vicente Lopez, just outside the city, next to the river. A link between the upscale northern suburbs and Downtown Buenos Aires, this complex is really changing a whole area of the city and giving new meaning to the relationship between neighbours and their river, the big brown Rio de la Plata.

Alrio Sales Office

Avenida del Libertador 350, Piso 11

Vicente Lopez

I love cafe

2011-05-14T09:39:00.016-04:00

After being in New York for so many years, we know a thing or two about coffee shops, cafes or whatever you like to call them. Considering the lack of space in Manhattan, they tend to be small, very small or tiny.

Downtown, where the charming ones we like are located, around Tribeca, Nolita and further east, we can find our favorite places to enjoy capuccinos and some sweets.

So, when a group of three friends decided to open the Argentine version of the kind of places we love (the Downtown cafe), it was very clear for us the way to go. Small? No problem, a few tables and chairs, a banquette, a couple of counters... We also had this idea of throwing a bit of London in the mix, especially because one of the owners spends part of the year in England with her polo player husband. And she adores London.

And then it was the color...Everything in the store under 3 feet high is painted red, everything above that is a shade of old parchment very shiny.

"I love cafe", that's the name of this magical place. Coffee to go and fresh food, good music, nice people in the heart of Recoleta. What's not to love?

Rodriguez Peña 1714

Buenos Aires

View from the Top

2011-05-14T07:25:00.009-04:00

First there was the view. Then the apartment, in a nondescript building from the 70's. Nothing special about it, no old parquet or marble fireplaces this time...Just a boring and plain box...but what a view!. Overlooking Palermo park, the rose gardens, the Planetarium, the race tracks, the river...

The social area is on the 13th floor, upstairs the bedrooms and bathrooms, and then one more flight of stairs and voila!, you are in the barbecue room, the "quincho"...that sacred place where Argentines get together to enjoy the best beef in the World. Actually is more of a ritual, that ancestral thing of enjoying your family and friends around food and wine...You know, latin blood that is.

Eat, love, drink. And in this particular case, with a view to kill for.

French touch it's done

2011-05-11T14:26:00.013-04:00

Our mission has been accomplished, the owner moved in with her family and everything is under control.

The charm of these old apartments is undeniably argentine. We like of think of it as "parisian-meets-the pampas", an unique combination of Old World tradition blended with the unique lifestyle that you can only find in this part of the Americas.

French touch

2010-09-16T19:45:00.007-04:00

A french inspired building from 1910's. An apartment that has not been touched in over 50 years (not even cleaned!). High ceilings (over 3,40 meters high), magnificent panelled wood doors with a million coats of paint, two tiny and awkward bathrooms, a creepy mini kitchen and a carpet of an undescript colour (we guess it was light blue when it was installed, probably when Peron was ruling the country in the 50's).

That was the picture we saw when they called us to help with the renovation. Buenos Aires is full of those surprises. A combination of faded grandeur and half a century of harsh economy combine to create something that you rarely see in other places (especially not in New York).

The way they lived, those fancy argentinians from the Belle Epoque! Now, things have changed, and an apartment like this needs a new life. We are bringing new plumbing, electrical, paint (yes please!) and especially water and soap to clean those magnificent windows that overlook ancient trees.

A french touch s'il vous plait, for an absolutely wonderful, neurotic, sexy and noisy city. There is no place like home.

Attitude for destruction

2010-07-22T18:10:00.006-04:00

There is something absolutely exciting about renovating an apartment...the thrill of the first knock on the wall, bricks falling down, the occasional chunk of old plaster hitting the floor...Dust, old pipes, wood floor, tiles, old cabinets...The old stuff is gone.

Walls falling down give place to new rooms. It is not a living room next to a dining room next to a library anymore...no way. Now we have this huge space, flooded with light...now we can see the four french doors leading to this amazing garden...a classical building from the 40's, where the owners (a young couple) trustred us with the mission of converting the ground floor apartment into something new and really special.

Right now it is only destruction, but soon we will have a new kitchen, a big bathroom and THAT walking closet that you only see on films. And a garden for Olga, the black lab.

All quiet on the Southern front

2010-06-09T06:47:00.003-04:00

We have received a lot of emails asking about our lives, what is going on and why this blog has been so quiet.

The answer is very simple: we are incredibly busy, and after a few weeks of silence it is increasingly difficult to come back to this blog... We are spending a lot of time in South America (Argentina, Uruguay, Costa Rica...) working a lot in renovations and new projects, so there is no time whatsoever to post anything...

So we think The Chukker will rest for a while.

Best

http://www.chukker.net/

Happy Holidays

2009-12-25T16:39:00.006-05:00

It`s been really quiet lately around here. We have so many things to do --work related, here in Buenos Aires as well as in Punta del Este--that we have no time for posting anything.

We will be back soon, the city is full of new and exciting things to do. For the time being, we leave you with the beautiful Christmas tree from Galerias Pacifico shopping mall along our warmest wishes for 2010.

The Chukker team

Photoshoot

2009-12-02T08:08:00.007-05:00

We were asked by our friend, photographer Alejandra Lopez, to be generous and lend our terrace in Buenos Aires for a fashion photoshoot. It took about five seconds to say yes, especially after knowing that gorgeous Sofia Zamolo was the one and only model.

So, about a week ago we had this very cool crew coming over and spending a lovely and windy afternoon shooting different outfits for the upcoming Holiday season. Everybody was great, and we had a great time.

If you click here, you will see the backstage of the shooting...turn your speakers on and enjoy!

Naturaleza Aguirre Mar: party pictures

2009-11-25T08:18:00.023-05:00

As our readers already know, we were involved in the design of the new store that Argentinian furniture maker Eugenio Aguirre opened last Monday in Buenos Aires. This new line is called Naturaleza Aguirre Mar (Mar meaning ocean in Spanish). So the whole concept was a new idea for the brand: we wanted to recreate the feeling of a beach house in a great location--French Caribbean, anyone?-- so we decided to build something between a store and a house.

The space is divided into a series of interconnected rooms, each of them displaying a different situation: bedroom, living room, family room...it's been done before (Ralph Lauren's store on Madison Avenue in New York is probably the best example) but it is a new idea in Buenos Aires, where all the furniture showrooms are just stores selling goods. Period.

The opening reception was held last Monday, and we probably had over 2,000 people attending. The party started at 6,30 and lasted until the last guests were basically asked to leave at 11,30 pm! There was a tent outside with two bars, live music, a great catering and a never ending supply of wine. The weather was really great--a wonderful summer night--so guests really enjoyed an unbelievable celebration.

We are already working on a project in Punta del Este in which this whole concept will be developed into an even bigger and more sophisticated space...This city is a summer resort that has always been THE place to be in January and February (our summer) so it is a fantastic opportunity to showcase this amazing new line.

Naturaleza Aguirre Mar

Buenos Aires Design Center

Av. Pueyrredon 2501 - (+54.11) 5777.6109

Polo Open

2009-11-17T08:21:00.010-05:00

The most important polo tournament in the world, the 116th Argentine Open Polo Championship (we know it here as "El Abierto Argentino de Polo") started last Saturday and it will take place until December 5.

As usual, it is held at the Campo Argentino de Polo in Palermo. This tournament--one of the most important events in the international Polo calendar--gathers the best polo players in the world (all of them from Argentina).

This is indeed the best time of the year to be in Buenos Aires.

Avenida Alvear, or the discreet charm of bourgeoisie

2009-11-13T11:33:00.040-05:00

There are few things to do in Buenos Aires more satisfying that walking down the sunny streets in a glorious Spring morning. And there are few streets more fascinating that Alvear Avenue if you love Architecture and want to explore one of the wealthiest neighbourhoods in town.

We had one hour to kill between appointments the other day, so we took our camera and began our walk. The weather was great--sunny and no humidity at all-- so we started at the intersection of Schiaffino street, right there where the huge and ancient rubber trees are located. Jacaranda trees are in bloom, and their purple flowers added a touch of unexpected colour in an otherwise monochromatic neighbourhood--most of the buildings are made of sand coloured stone or painted in that shade.

A great building by Alejandro Bustillo to the right, the Alvear Palace Hotel to the left...Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Cartier...so far away from Paris or New York, but still the same stores offering the same goods. After we crossed Callao Avenue, more upscale shopping and more fantastic buildings from the 40´s and 50´s. Then, after Rodriguez Peña street we found the only block that still has the original constructions intact: The Maguire residence, the Duhau residence--nowadays the Park Hyatt hotel--and the Fernandez Anchorena residence--that is, the Apostolic Nunciature in Argentina.

After this feast of classical architecture, we reached the Carlos Pellegrini square. Probably the most elegant park in the whole city, it features and impressive statue of former President Pellegrini and a fountain. This is where you can find the Embassy of Brasil, the Jockey Club and the Embassy of France.

At the end of our walk, exhausted and ready for a snack, we crossed the 9 de Julio avenue and ended up at the Sofitel hotel--just two blocks away-- for a quick lunch before going back to work.

Gonzalo does it again...

2009-11-09T08:37:00.011-05:00

We received an invitation from our friend Gonzalo Papantonakis. He is having an exhibition of his latest work at Gallery nine5 on November 12.

Gonzalo moved to Los Angeles a couple of years ago after he made it really big in New York (we wrote his story a while ago, check it out here). We are always eager to hear from this artist, and already own a few of his paintings--which proved to be a wise investment indeed.

It will be good to see how the whole California experience has influenced his inspiration.

Gallery nine5
24 Spring Street - New York

Naná Gallardo, photographer

2009-11-06T05:35:00.022-05:00

We were invited to the opening of a great exhibition the other night: photographer Naná Gallardo--a talented artist who is not afraid to explore any subject--was one of the artists showing their latest works at Natan (a furniture showroom that has been a mecca for interior designers and architects for decades in Buenos Aires).

We met Naná and her friend, the model and actress Mariana Gio. We started taking photographs ourselves, no doubt inspired by the fantastic art on display. You can have an idea of how interesting the whole experience was by looking at the images. The mood was perfect for some almost surreal images...like movie stills from a mysterious film.

Natan

Arenales 1223 - Buenos Aires

From the terrace

2009-11-05T08:38:00.009-05:00

Our own little piece of Paradise on earth is this little pied-a-terre we have in Buenos Aires.

It is just a small apartment really, but with a big terrace. And a tower. And a working fireplace. And an indoor barbecue. And a million plants. And a bunch of hummingbirds that live nearby and stop by early every morning to visit.

At the end of the day, how many square meters do you need to enjoy life?

Naturaleza Aguirre

2009-11-02T15:23:00.010-05:00

If you follow this blog, you already know we work along Argentinian furniture maker Eugenio Aguirre. We are at the moment in Buenos Aires as their new store is about to be officially open on November 23. This is the third store we designed for them, and this time we are in the beach mood...Saint Barths is the way to go!...or maybe Punta del Este (we have a new project coming up there also, but we shouldn't talk until it is confirmed, right?).

The store looks like a big beach house, simple in its materials, airy and cozy. There is a fireplace and also a big banquette...we tried to recreate a real house so customers can get the idea of how furniture will work in their own homes.

We are done with the construction phase, so now we are in the process of putting everything together for the big opening.

The images give you an idea of how everything looks like. It is very time consuming but we are extremely happy with the results and wanted to share these photographs with our loyal readers.

Apologies...

2009-10-27T12:23:00.011-04:00

Since we started writing this blog a few months ago, we have been receiving emails on a daily basis asking for sort of "bespoke" recommendations when visiting Argentina. Readers have been begging, for instance, for very specific requests: "We will be in Buenos Aires next month, where should we stay in Palermo Soho?"..."Places to see outside Buenos Aires?"..."And what about Patagonia?"etc, etc, etc...so we confess: We are very sorry but we cannot simply answer to everybody! Not enough hours in the day!

This blog is just a list of places we recommend, restaurants we like, hotels we think are great. We are not a travel agency or arrange private tours--although maybe that is the way to go apparently!!!-- and also remember we are not getting paid to promote any of these places. That is why we are completely honest and our judgement is pretty objective (the only filters we have are quality and authenticity).

That is why we recommend researching this blog using the Search option to the right of your screen (the "Lijit search" thing). It will list the posts that match your request (hotels, restaurants, tango...).

Thank you all for your constant feedback!

The Chukker

Buenos Aires Photo

2009-10-26T17:12:00.009-04:00

We were invited to the fifth edition of Buenos Aires Photo --the fair dedicated exclusively to photography-- which opens its doors to the public on October 28Th.

This is a particularly interesting event held every year at the Palais de Glace, a former ice skate rink built in 1910 that became an exhibition center later on. In addition to the art dealers from Argentina--a great number really-- this year there are galleries from seven countries showing the best works of their star photographers.

Buenos Aires Photo
Palais de Glace - Posadas 1727
From October 28 to November 1

All roads lead to BA

2009-10-23T08:32:00.007-04:00

Dear Readers:
We are on our way to JFK Airport. Our regular trip to Argentina is due today, so probably posts will be more scarce while we are in Buenos Aires.

We will be doing some work and researching for our followers-- so many of them already!-- that email us on a daily basis. Sometimes asking for advice, sometimes giving us some tips.

Thanks to all of you!

Best,
The Chukker

The Kavanagh building

2009-10-22T08:20:00.007-04:00

Few buildings in Buenos Aires generate more fantasies and myths than the Kavanagh. Located in Plaza San Martin--one of the most beautiful squares in the city--it was built in the 30's by a wealthy lady called Corina Kavanagh. She commissioned the award winning firm Sanchez, Lagos y de la Torre in 1934 to design the tallest structure in South America at the time. It was finished in 1936 after she sold two of her most profitable farms to finance the construction.

Legend says that the location of the building was decided by revenge...Apparently, one of Corina's daughters--from a well-off but sort of "nouveau riche" family--fell in love with a son of the Anchorena family (wealthy beyond description and extremely conservative). The Anchorenas--of course--did not approve the engagement. They lived in front of the Plaza San Martin in a magnificent mansion, and they had built a church across the square so they could see it from their house--a very catholic family indeed. Corina (furious!) decided to block the view and bought the land where the Kavanagh stands, right in front of that church...

Fiction or not, this building is one of the finest in the city. Stepping into its lobby is like going back in time. Nothing has changed in over 70 years. Luxurious materials everywhere: parchment on the walls--they say Jean-Michel Frank decorated the lobby...maybe another legend?--as well as marbles, Lalique crystal, precious woods and bronze make this place the most elegant and chic Art Deco room in Buenos Aires. No doubt about it.

Kavanagh building - Florida 1065

Buenos Aires Museums, part 1

2009-10-21T14:55:00.005-04:00

Buenos Aires offers an interesting selection of Museums and Art Galleries, so after all the shopping has been done and all the red meat has been eaten, art lovers can spend a few hours getting to know the city in a different, more intellectual way. Some Museums are unique and local, while others are more international and reflect a clear European influence.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Avenida del Libertador 1473
This Museum houses the best collection in Argentina. You have the big Impressionists here---Monet, Cezanne, Degas among others ---and also the work of amazing Argentine artists, like Angel della Valle, Eduardo Sivori, Quiros and others. Don't miss the Bemberg Collection, a gift of late film director Maria Luisa Bemberg. After you are done, walk to nearby cafe Rond Point for a quick lunch (although it lost all of its charm after being "modernized", is still a good spot).

MALBA
Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415
This Museum showcases Latin American Art, so you will find Tarsila do Amaral, Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Joaquin Torres-Garcia, Emilio di Cavalcanti... Antonio Berni, Xul Solar...the list goes on an on. The building itself is a very interesting example of contemporary architecture. The cafe/restaurant is very good, and the Museum shop has an interesting selection of books and gifts.

Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
Avenida del Libertador 1902
Originally the Errazuriz Residence, this magnificent house has been turned into a small Museum filled with antiques and Oriental Art. It is worth a visit just to roam in the space and appreciate how was life a hundred years ago for the well-off. There is an outdoor cafe (Croque Madame) that we highly recommend.

Museo Fortabat
Olga Cossettini 141
This new addition to the city's cultural life is located in Puerto Madero, in a building designed by award winning firm Rafael Viñoly Architects. It holds the magnificent private collection of Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, one of Latin America's richest women. After the visit, you can walk along the river and cross the Puente de la Mujer, a bridge designed by mega famous architect Santiago Calatrava.

Museo de los Ninos
Avenida Corrientes 3247 - Level 2
Although not a traditional museum, it offers multiple booths---sponsored by big corporations---where children can reenact real life experiences and learn at the same time: anchoring a TV news, taking care of supermarket shelves or assisting a baby doll at a hospital. It is located inside the Abasto Shopping Mall, and it is great to keep kids busy for a couple of hours.

Museo Evita
Lafinur 2988
Everything you always wanted to know about Eva Peron's personal life is here, so you can have a better understanding of this fascinating and controversial figure. There is also a very good restaurant in the premises.

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernandez Blanco
Suipacha 1422
This museum is in a quiet street in the Retiro neighbourhood, in an old Spanish style mansion. It holds a number of antiques and old religious pieces, and it has a fantastic courtyard. It is located only half a block from the Sofitel hotel, where you can have a snack before or after the visit.

Another post with Art galleries and more museums, coming up...

Surreal Park Avenue

2009-10-20T08:18:00.003-04:00

We discovered this surreal sheep farm on Park Avenue and 52nd Street the other day, just across the street from the famous Seagram building. They are a series of sculptures by the French artists Claude and François-Xavier Lalanne, on display until November 20th (they are the famous "Moutons" crafted from epoxy and bronze between 1988 and 1994).

They bring a sense of joy and unexpected fun into the manicured green lawn of one of the busiest avenues in the city. Plus, they are quiet and clean. Just perfect.

Downtown Buenos Aires

2009-10-19T08:29:00.038-04:00

Downtown Buenos Aires or Microcentro has a small but very interesting hotel menu. We were very happy to see in recent years a couple of magnificent old buildings restored and relaunched as fancy places to stay. The centre of town attracts a lot of tourists, and staying in the area is not a bad choice. It is very quiet at night (sometimes too quiet) and you can walk everywhere.

There are a few good restaurants and bars, so you won't feel deprived of fun. But definitely don't expect a lot of activities in the area after dark, because this is the Financial District anyhow.

Our choices are:

725 Continental

Avenida Roque Saenz Peña 725 - phone (+54.11) 4131.8000

This used to be the famous Continental Hotel, built in 1927 by Alejandro Bustillo, the famous argentine architect---probably the best argentine architect ever--- and it was a very traditional spot for years. Things change though, and after years of neglect it was reborn under a different name and a major renovation---sort of major plastic surgery. The results? A funky and modern place, friendly staff and rooms with plenty of amenities (a bit on the small side...). It could be a bit quiet if you are looking for action...

562 Nogaro

Avenida Julio Argentino Roca 562

Owned by the same Company behind the 725 Continental, it is a good and more economical choice if you want to be near Plaza de Mayo and within walking distance of San Telmo and its wonderful attractions. Small rooms but good breakfast buffet.

Esplendor Buenos Aires

San Martin 780 - phone (+54.11) 5217.5799

Located next to Galerias Pacifico Shopping Mall and Florida Street, this hotel is closer to Retiro neighbourhood--- Plaza San Martin is a few blocks away, and it is a great park to relax under the sun for a few minutes--- and the area offers more activities at night, so noise could be an issue. Big rooms and good service make this place a good base to explore Puerto Madero and surrounding areas.

When it's time to eat there are a few restaurants in the area that are very good. We like Dadá (San Martin 947), the steaks there never disappoint and the artsy decor makes this funky bistro a must if you are in the area.

If you are just tired of the red meat thing, try the japanese-peruvian fusion at Sipan (Paraguay 624). It is really an excellent and consistent restaurant that delivers great creations. Try the tiraditos de maracuya and the awesome ceviche.

Another interesting place is Empire (Tres Sargentos 427), a thai restaurant on a small and quiet pedestrian street with a good menu and an intimate (although a bit dark) atmosphere. We like the curries and the breaded shrimps

Tancat (Paraguay 645) is a tapas restaurant with a good selection of typical spanish dishes. A small place, it can feel a bit cramped.

Our favourite place for a tasty snack is the Bar at the Marriott Plaza Hotel (Florida 1005). Don't let the name fool you: this was a very traditional and conservative hotel when it was built a hundred years ago. After being bought by the Marriott chain unfortunately lost most of its charm, but the Bar is still a great place to relax after a long walk Downtown. We love the tostado sandwiches and the secluded and cozy ambiance. A must.

There are also some good bars in the area, but that is material for another post...

Recoleta Cemetery

2009-10-16T12:35:00.014-04:00

It is inevitable to end up in the Recoleta Cemetery when walking around in Buenos Aires. Sooner rather than later, a visit to this tourist destination is a must for a lot of reasons: it is located in a fancy neighbourhood with a lot of interesting attractions, it has the mausoleum of the Duarte family where Eva Peron is buried, it is a bit romantic (and so different from other cemeteries around the world) and finally the mausoleums are absolutely breathtaking (while some are in good shape a lot of them are in a sorry state of disrepair).

It also reflects an era when Argentina was a powerful and wealthy country, so people in life as well as in death wanted to show off their splendid style and the abundance of money. Inside you find an argentinian Who's Who: presidents, influential families, scientists... Everybody who was somebody is buried there.

The layout is organized like a city grid, so you walk through streets showcasing beautiful "houses"---yes, it is like a City of the Dead--- along statues in marble and bronze, trees and probably 2,000,000 cats.

It will take you a good hour to roam around this place, and it's really worth it (have a memory card empty in your camera when you get there...trust us, we couldn't stop taking photographs...)

Bienvenidos al Paraiso

2009-10-14T13:23:00.019-04:00

Summertime in Buenos Aires is a little oppressive. Usually January and February are the worst months to be in the city---most people take their summer vacations on January---so besides the heat and the high humidity nobody is there. That could be bad or good, it really depends on your mood. We've had some wonderful times when the city is half empty (for instance, restaurants and bars just for yourself is not a bad thing).

But if you are tired of the cement and want to rest in touch with Nature ---without going to Punta del Este---there is an alternative in the nearby town of Carmelo (Uruguay): the Four Seasons Resort. It takes a short plane ride and you are there, in the middle of a wonderful pine and eucalypt forest on the bank of the Rio de la Plata...surrounded by wonderful buildings in stone and wood that look like they belong in Bali.

The service is impeccable--- Uruguayans are extremely polite and relaxed--- and so is the Spa. There are tennis courts, a gym, a golf course, a wonderful club house...

This place is great even in winter time, because all the rooms and bungalows feature wood burning fireplaces... great for that romantic getaway.

Welcome to Paradise.

Lisbeth and Co.

2009-10-13T13:48:00.016-04:00

We spent a great weekend Upstate New York last summer in company of our good friend Lisbeth McCoy and her lovely family.

Originally from Denmark, she came to the States a long time ago. We met Lisbeth at her store in New York ("Lisbeth and Co" on Elizabeth St in Nolita), a small space full of unbelievable vintage furniture, lamps and decorative objects from Denmark.

That store was a magnet for designers and famous faces, all of them attracted by the impeccable taste of the owner. She is a talented Interior Designer, with a very strict eye for details and a clear vision of what she likes (and especially, of what she does not like).

Her house Upstate is an extension of her persona. A small and intimate retreat, peaceful and warm, perfect for those long meals surrounded by family and friends...

We wanted to share with our readers a few pictures we took that weekend, so everybody can enjoy a bit of this Country Paradise.

Eugenio Aguirre

2009-10-09T16:16:00.019-04:00

As our readers already know, we work along Argentinian furniture maker Eugenio Aguirre as image consultants for their different stores. We've been together for a long time, and in all those years we witnessed the growth of the Company---they opened several stores in the city--- and also the birth of a new line that was launched last year, called Naturaleza Aguirre.

Eugenio Aguirre manufactures the best quality furniture you can find in Argentina. They use leather and parchment---in the tradition of Jean-Michel Frank--- along precious wood and metal (the table tops of some wonderful dining and coffee tables are covered in ebonized bronze).

They sell in different countries, and there are also some projects in the making in New York City (a boutique hotel in Soho is one of them).

Our last collaboration was the new branch Naturaleza Aguirre is opening soon in the Buenos Aires Design Center. This time, we were into a beach mood (think a vacation in St Barths and you get the picture), so the shop recreates the atmosphere of a cool home in a romantic and exotic location.

Naturaleza Aguirre

Buenos Aires Design

Avenida Pueyrredon 2501 - phone 5777.6058

Lake Viedma

2009-10-07T13:15:00.006-04:00

Today, we would like to be there...

Shopping in Recoleta

2009-10-06T15:35:00.009-04:00

If you are based in Recoleta when visiting Buenos Aires---either in one of the big Hotels or in a rented apartment--- there are plenty of stores in the area. A bit more upscale than their Palermo Viejo counterparts, stores here are usually expensive ---location is everything: Hermes and Louis Vuitton are found in the area so you know what to expect. For our well heeled readers, some tips below:

Tramando

Rodríguez Peña 1973 - phone 4811-0465

Owned by Martin Churba---a multitalented textile designer---the avant-garde clothes here are multicoloured and extremely cleverly designed. You will be amused by the intricately woven fabrics and the variety of materials used in the striking pieces on display.

Breeders

Posadas 1269 - phone 4815-6326

This small store is a good place if you are into some serious mink, fox and chinchilla furs. They can customized all their pieces for mena and women. Spectacular crocodile and lizard bags.

Evangelina Bomparola

Avenida Presidente Quintana 20 - phone 4814-2553

A small Recoleta shop that is full of cocktail dresses and unique evening gowns ---everything here is made of pure silk, wool, cashmere ---so you know you are getting just the best.

Arandu

Ayacucho 1924 - phone 4800-1575
A two-story shop selling all things Argentinian. From housewares---alpaca silver trays and mates--- to sporting goods made by artisans from the argentinian Northwest, the store definitely caters to aficionados of country style. Bags and boots are of very good quality, as well as the selction of hunting and polo gear displayed on the second floor. Amazing saddles.

Rapsodia

Patio Bullrich Shopping Mall - phone 4814-7458
The store showcases a feminine and romantic line of clothing: sweaters, sundresses and boots and a vast selection of jeans.

De Maria

Libertad 1655 - phone 4815-5001
Interesting shoe store displaying unique and creative numbers.

Celedonio
Castex 3225 - phone 4803-7598

A few minutes taxi ride from Recoleta, this great store--- where architect turned jewelry designer Celedonio Lohidoy sells ornate pieces made of moonstone, labradorite,baroque pearls and coral, along with some featuring feathers and wire--- is a haven in the chaos of the city. Take your time when choosing one of his designs. The intricate pieces are really magnificent. (Lohidoy also created the brand of toiletries found at the Duhau Hotel.)

After all this shopping we are sure your energy level already dropped, so head over to La Rambla---corner of Posadas and Ayacucho---for one of their famous lomitos completos (a sandwich you will never forget...). If the weather is nice, sit outside and relax... You know, sometimes life is so good!

The Tango Lesson

2009-10-05T07:42:00.004-04:00

When you visit Buenos Aires, it doesn't really matter if you are an expert or a beginner: the most important thing is to fall under the spell of tango and just dance!. Because it is the only way to discover the real spirit of the city.

We did our research and have these recommendations for you, tango lovers that sent so many emails asking for where to go. Our choices are:

Escuela Argentina de Tango
Viamonte and San Martin (Downtown) phone 4312 4990
This is THE most important school in the country(and maybe in the world). Located in the Centro Cultural Borges. They offer individual lessons for all levels during the week, and intermediate and advanced levels over the weekend.

La Viruta
Armenia 1366 (Palermo) phone 4774 6357
Legendary place when you can really admire the best dancers. You will also discover the rules of "cabeceo": an almost imperceptible head movement from the man to a woman, who can say yes or no (usually looking somewhere else).
There is also a restaurant open until 3 AM (typical argentine cuisine, heavy on meats). There is also a vegetarian option (almost a heresy in Argentina!).

La Academia de Ana María Schapira
Dr. Angel Peluffo 3909, third floor (Almagro) phone 4981 6869
You will not find a more impressive resume like the one of Ana Maria Schapira. To visit her school is a must.

La Barrica
Magallanes 845 (Boca) phone 4301 9197
There was a famous composer that wrote: "Tango is a sad thought that is danced".
But it could also be fun! Like in this place: an informal atmosphere, lots of wine and dance. Charming.

Tango Brujo
Esmeralda 754 (Downtown) phone 4325 8264
One of the most important schools in the city, it is home to festivals and international competitions. You will see here some of the world's most renowned Maestros.
They also sell tango shoes, accessories, Cd's...

El Niño Bien
Humberto I 1462 (Boca) phone 4483 2588
The first impression you get when you step into this very well known place, is that at any moment Carlos Gardel can go out on the stage to perform one of his famous (and somehow sad) tangos. In truth, men and women here are seated at their tables waiting for the moment to go dancing and forget about the mediocre food.

Esquina Carlos Gardel
Carlos Gardel 3200 (Almagro) phone 4876 6363
Shows always start here with an homage to Carlos Gardel and his moving melodies. «Mi Buenos Aires Querido», the composer used to sing...and his words resound powerful in this elegant space. The performances are always first class.

We believe this is a good start to help you choose the right milonga! Have fun.

Hasta la vista, Negra...

2009-10-04T08:53:00.004-04:00

Mercedes Sosa died today in Buenos Aires. She was 74.

Doctor's prescription

2009-10-02T09:47:00.012-04:00

Apotheke is one of our favourite bars in New York. The name itself exudes Old World mystery...Apotheke means a pharmacy or a drugstore, but also a place to prepare potions and elixirs.

Located on a small street just one block long in Chinatown, in a spot with a long and interesting list of previous tenants---opium den, Chinese opera house, dim sum parlor--- this dimly lit space has a dramatic atmosphere. A very theatrical bar, lots of antique medicine bottles, comfortable sofas...

The cocktail list (actually, it is "A selection of House Prescriptions") features Stress Relievers, Pain Killers, Aphrodisiacs and even Euphoric Enhancers...We were witnesses of the magical powers of a few of these potions. They work.

We really felt we were not in New York anymore. We were maybe in Montmartre, circa 1891. Toulouse Lautrec was joining us for a drink.

Apotheke

9 Doyers Street

p 212.406.0111

Keep shopping in Buenos Aires...

2009-10-01T10:56:00.011-04:00

After our first post about interesting shops in Buenos Aires, we have been contacted by several readers asking the same question: "Why didn't you write about my favorite shop...?" or "We found this place and is sooooo good..."

Therefore, we added these stores to the list:

For Women:

Santesteban

Galeria Promenade - Alvear Palace Hotel

First class shoes and bags in a small shop inside the Hotel Alvear (the most classic of all hotels in South America). Everybody who is somebody shops here (we wrote about this place here).We spotted their shoes at the last Fashion Week in New York.

Min Agostini

Libertad 1532 - phone 4813 0805

An Architect turned Fashion Designer, her clothes are extremely interesting in texture and shape. High quality and unbelievable craftsmanship. Her clothes sell in Buenos Aires, Europe and New York. She is one of the Designers showing her talent in Bryant Park for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week 2009 (read more here).

Pablo Ramirez

Peru 587 - phone 4342 7154

Elegant and timeless, mostly in black so new yorkers can shop with confidence: clothes will always be in style.

Juan Perez

Marcelo T. de Alvear 1441 - phone 4815 8442

Vintage at its best. A perfect place to get lost for hours, knowing you will fond something truly amazing. Convenient downtown location (clothes for men and women).

For men:

La Dolfina

Avenida Alvear 1315 - phone 4815 2698

This is a true polo lifestyle brand, discreet and high quality. Expensive. Another store in Galerias Pacifico Shopping Mall.

Guido

Avenida Quintana 333

Handmade and very conservative shoes of extremely good quality. Great gifts for dad (or grandpa).

More to come...Wait until our next post, because in Buenos Aires shopping never ends.

Tango

2009-09-30T11:35:00.021-04:00

We read on the paper:
Tango was declared part of the world's cultural heritage by the United Nations on Wednesday and granted the international seal of approval Argentina and Uruguay have long sought for the dramatic dance and its sensual moves.

We know most people probably have this stereotypical misconception of the dance: a good looking woman---shiny, tight split dress along with some killer stilettos and a sensual body ---spinning cheek-to-cheek very fast across a dance hall with a good looking man---tuxedo of course, rose clenched between his teeth---kicking and hurling back and forth...And that, my friends, is the ultimate cliche.

Reality could be much more complicated than a movie or a TV show. The reality and meaning of tango goes beyond that cliche. A history that goes back over a hundred years. A history of poor European immigrants and their American dreams, of cheap bordellos and accordions... A tale full of sad stories (usually about heartaches related to love relationships that went sour), family ties, homesickness, life in the poor suburbs...

In Argentina you dance tango slowly. It is a sensual dance, of course, and it takes time to master. Nowadays, there are thousands learning the steps. A new generation that includes even Japanese and Germans (the biggest fans) along people from all over the world.

They are leaning how to dance a sad feeling. A passion. That is tango.

Viewpoint of millions

2009-09-29T12:55:00.013-04:00

We stumbled upon this painting/collage of artist David Datuna by chance. It had a very powerful presence even in a wrong location, with generic lighting and surroundings.

Immediately we started taking photographs and realizing how interesting the whole concept was. The artist was not there, so unfortunately we never met him. In the painting we found Abraham Lincoln next to Bill Clinton, Marilyn, George Clooney, Michael Jackson, Britney, Jackie O...the list goes on and on.

From a sign above the painting we extract:

"American flag is one of the most powerful and energetic banners in the world...

USA or Viewpoint of millions consists of more than a thousand optical lenses...

Red and white stripes of the flag are made from the clippings from periodical publications

Stars in the blue canton display faces of people who have been making the history of this country with their achievements and triumphs as well as failures and scandals...

Numerous lenses of the collage represent people's individual perceptions of America.

Magnifying and shrinking lenses symbolize viewpoints of those who are concerned about the USA or indifferent to it.

No matter how different the viewpoints may be, people of all over the world are continuously focused on the USA".

Roots of a land

2009-09-28T11:28:00.003-04:00

There is an area in the furniture world that is a little difficult to understand. Some people call it "rustic"or "lodge style"or maybe "cabin style". And then there is another version, an Argentinian one, that is handcrafted by the indigenous people (that is, the ones that were there before the Spaniards arrived). That craftsmanship is still alive, although barely surviving.

Ricardo Paz always thought this tradition needed to be kept alive. He opened a store in Palermo Viejo called Arte Etnico. This is a neighbourhood that has a small scale, full of old houses, trees, blue skies. In the store he showcases a fascinating collection of furniture, textiles and objects that some people could call "rustic". Trees become animals, branches become screens, wood panels covered in parchment become tables...Each piece is unique of course, and it shows the slight imperfections of a handmade object.

Antique rugs and textiles, colourful and happy, cover walls and sofas. Small chairs with seats made out of cowhide hang from the ceiling...A magical space, as unique and original as the objects exhibited.

Ricardo Paz

El Salvador 4656 - phone 4832-0516

Gisele and I wish you a great weekend

2009-09-25T15:47:00.004-04:00

Gisele Bündchen from up above Crosby St---courtesy of London Fog---and The Chukker from his headquarters in Soho wish you a wonderful weekend.

Turkish Delight

2009-09-24T16:21:00.010-04:00

When we visited Istanbul recently, we couldn't help but notice the vibrant energy of this fascinating city. Crowded, a bit noisy, but extremely interesting. A place where History is alive, you can almost feel it. You go from one century into the next without a warning.

We stayed at the Four Seasons Hotel, near the entrance of the Topkapi Palace. This particular hotel is a former prison---believe it or not---although you would never guess the luxurious rooms were cells in a previous life. We were facing Saint Sofia, and were often intrigued by this phenomenal symbol of faith and beauty.

A visit to the Grand Bazaar was de rigueur and it took us most of the day. A really overwhelming experience, even if the goods were mostly occidental we found a few authentic stores (Abdulla is one of them, selling towels, robes and everything for the hammam experience). Another store full of treasures is Murat Hashas, they sell the best fabrics and cushions ever.

After a couple of days enjoying the warm weather and the great food, we took off to Bodrum.

But that is another story.

New York minute

2009-09-23T11:37:00.013-04:00

Hanging out on this particular corner of Downtown Manhattan is a little bit like stepping in a time capsule. Actually, it is like going back straight to the 70's: we are talking about 200 Water Street, designed in 1971 by Emery Roth & Sons.

The famous "Grid Clock" is still working, after years of neglect (the building was a NYU dorm for a while). Nowadays the owners converted the building into residential, so everything is back to its former glory, clock included.

There are also some colorful benches, and even some phone booths (without public phones of course...when was the last time we used a public phone? 10 years ago?). Everything is painted in bright primary colors, as it should be. We are talking about the Seventies here.

So there you are: a New York minute in the world's largest digital clock.

Buenos Aires bars, part 1

2009-09-22T10:28:00.005-04:00

When visiting Buenos Aires most people find that porteños have dinner really late for international standards (after 10 PM is the usual thing when going to restaurants). Going for dinner at 8 or 8.30 PM is something unheard of.

Even at 9 restaurants are empty, or the only people there are tourists.

Therefore, a good way to kill a couple of hours before eating that steak is to go to a nice bar and have a drink. There are plenty of places, so we will start with a few:

Milión
Paraná 1048 (Barrio Norte)
This is still a good place to go (it opened a few years back). The place is stunning: an old mansion converted into a couple of restaurants and bars, including an amazing terrace and a patio. Great cocktail list and an international clientele make this bar/restaurant a must.

Ocho7Ocho
Thames 878 (Villa Crespo)
Behind the unmarked door in this up-and-coming neighbourhood you will find a great spot, with some of the best cocktails in town. A little out of the way, it is great when you grow tired of Palermo Viejo and want to try something different (and very good).

Supersoul

Baez 252 (Las Cañitas)
This place rocks. Always good, always crowded, always fun.

Mundo Bizarro

Serrano 1222 (Palermo Viejo)
Still around after a few years, this dim reddish bar still has very good cocktails. Hit or miss.

Congo
Honduras 5329 (Palermo Viejo)
Tucked away besides the railways tracks, this is a great pre-club bar. Having an enormous outdoor space is one of the best features (especially in a sticky summer night)

If you want something a bit more tranquil or refined, especially if you are exhausted after a long day of walking around the city , there are other options. We like the Old World atmosphere of the Bar at the Alvear Palace Hotel for a chic cocktail. Or maybe the Oak Room at the Duhau, where you can appreciate centuries old paneling (brought back from France when the house was built 75 years ago) while sipping that fancy scotch.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week a la Argentina in pictures

2009-09-18T00:10:00.033-04:00

We had a great time last night in the Argentina Designer's show.
Absolutely packed, visitors from Buenos Aires (among them international top Model Valeria Mazza)and lots of press (Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Vanidades Latin America, Oprah, Elle, WWD...) We were talking with gracious Mary Alice Stephenson, who really enjoyed the show.

The team behind this amazing event (the Consulate of Argentina in New York and A. Cicognani Communications plus the unbelievable stylist Amanda Ross) as well as the designers Benito Fernandez, Cardon, Eufemia, Min Agostini and Zitta delivered an impeccable performance, that was truly enjoyed by the crowd.

Our pictures are worth much more than we can say...

High Society

2009-09-17T01:54:00.003-04:00

After having a mid morning coffee at Café de Flore (great for people watching besides the tourist crowds), we walked to nearby restaurant La Société. It is right across the street from the Church of Saint Germain, and it is owned by the Costes family (yes, the brothers that opened a dozen or so of restaurants all over Paris).

It was designed by our hero Christian Liaigre, who created an amazing interior. Sort of contemporary french-asian with his signature touch of leather and mahogany furniture. A few sculptures give the place a cool artistic feeling.

It is a great place to be surrounded by beautiful people, of course, plus the food is good (maybe not your gourmet meal if you are into it...but still good). A relaxed lunch in one of the most beautiful neighbourhoods in Paris (shrimp risotto was really good!).

La Societe: 4 Place Saint Germain des Pres, 6th - phone 01.53.63.60.60.

Buenos Aires hotels, part 1

2009-09-15T10:35:00.008-04:00

We receive emails very frequently asking for places to stay when visiting Buenos Aires.

There are many options, depending on budget and location. Recoleta or Palermo Viejo, San Telmo or Financial District, Buenos Aires has a very wide selection. Our choices are:

Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt (Recoleta)
A Belle Epoque mansion, with an unbelievable garden, has been restored to its former glory, and with a modern addition on Posadas Street it became the Duhau (like everybody calls the hotel). Great restaurant and bar, with a terrace overlooking the garden, a real oasis in a very busy area.It has the best Spa in Recoleta, with a nice indoor swimming pool.

Alvear Palace Hotel (Recoleta)

This classic hotel is still the choice for those looking for a parisian feeling when staying in Buenos Aires (rooms are decorated in Louis XV style). The best feature is the Lobby Bar, great for high tea or for cocktails before dinner. The Spa is nicely appointed.

Sofitel Buenos Aires (Retiro)
An amazing Art Deco tower in a quiet street packed with Art Galleries has been converted into a very nice hotel. The library with a wood burning fireplace is our favorite spot in the winter. Nice bar and restaurant.

Jardin Escondido (Palermo Viejo)
We wrote about Francis Coppola's hotel here.

Hotel Home (Palermo Viejo)
Small hotel in a very cool area packed with restaurants and boutiques. Nice garden and even a Spa.

Costa Petit Hotel (Palermo Viejo)

Only four suites in this jewel of a hotel. Like staying in a private home. Nice garden with a small pool.

Boquitas Pintadas (San Telmo)
Sort of a "Pop-hotel" (at least according to their owners), interesting interiors that are a mix between surreal and almost a bit tacky. Fun place.

Bo Bo Hotel (Palermo Viejo)
Bo Bo stands for Bourgeois And Bohemian, which means this place is both conservative and rebel (actually, it is more of "friendly, efficient and charming" really). A beautiful mansion transformed into a very nice hotel and great restaurant. Highly recommended.

Another post about hotels, later on.

Heart of a Champion

2009-09-14T18:12:00.007-04:00

We want to congratulate argentine Juan Martin del Potro for defeating Roger Federer and winning the US Open 2009.

It took him exactly four hours and six minutes.

GRANDE CAMPEON!!!!!!!

A Park with a View

2009-09-14T15:47:00.010-04:00

On our way to Brooklyn Heights the other day, we stopped by at the construction site of the future Brooklyn Bridge Park to see what is going on. There is a lot of activity in the area, and hopefully the first section will be open this coming winter.

The fantastic 85-acre Brooklyn Bridge Park will stretch near mile and a half along the East River. The area so far has been completely underused and inaccessible to the public, although it offers the best views of Downtown Manhattan.

It will be a magnificent public space, with plenty of activities and even a beach (also planned are fishing piers, floating pathways, canals...a lot going on).

The park with the best view in the whole world.

Fashion's Night Out: Party pictures 2

2009-09-11T15:13:00.013-04:00

We basically had so much fun in Barney's that didn't make it Downtown. There were so many places we needed to go (Costume National in Soho was one of them) but it was overwhelming and we didn't have time. It was Uptown or Downtown really.

There we saw Jonathan Adler work his magic with pottery, talked to Simon Doonan, and then Behnaz Sarafpour, Isabel Toledo and her new book, Super Model Coco Rocha and her new music video, Zac Posen...models, businessmen, artists... lots of people (really, a lot).

Our tour continued at Armani (more pictures later).

Fashion's Night Out: Party pictures 1

2009-09-11T14:36:00.009-04:00

Last night was really a party. Madison Avenue was packed, everybody had too much to drink and the whole mood was: Let's have fun!.

Pictures are worth much more than we can say. More to come later.

Enjoy.

Fashion's Night Out 2009

2009-09-10T14:03:00.004-04:00

Tonight...

In a global initiative to promote retail, restore consumer confidence, and celebrate fashion, U.S. and international editions of Vogue are coordinating evening extravaganzas in their respective world fashion capitals.

The greatest gift of all

2009-09-10T10:51:00.017-04:00

Since Hermes took over the space where Luca Luca used to be on Madison Avenue and 62nd Street, this huge orange box has been calling our attention.

It was about time we took some shots. Honestly, we love how this big colorful structure relates to the buildings next door. Orange and brown go so well together.

An urban intervention indeed, temporary and with obvious commercial and promotional reasons of course. But still impressive.

Who can resist an orange box anyhow?

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week a la Argentina.

2009-09-09T14:48:00.015-04:00

We received the invitation and got really excited!

For the first time ever, a group of Argentine designers are showing their Collections at Bryant Park during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week - Spring 2010

The designers include Benito Fernandez, Cardon, Eufemia, Min Agostini and Zitta.

September 17th, at 7.00 PM

We can't wait!

A proposito di Roma

2009-09-09T14:09:00.011-04:00

If you follow our blog, you already know we appreciate good food.

Unpretentious, pretentious, local, international, from street vendors or five star restaurants...we tried them all. And all we can say is we like good food, and it doesn't really matter where it's coming from. We know it's easy to say but it is so difficult to find...

A particular place we always go back to when in Rome is Trattoria Gusto. It expanded from its original location, so it's getting bigger and more interesting. Restaurant, pizzeria, wine bar, they have a bookstore and a wine store as well as a cheese store.

The food is honest and good, tasty and unpretentious. A very warm atmosphere in which to unwind after a long day walking down the city.

They are located near the Mausoleum of Augustus, and you can check their website for the different locations (all of them in the neighbourhood).

Crosby Street Hotel

2009-09-08T11:29:00.011-04:00

For those among us who walk down Crosby Street in Soho everyday, this past year has been really interesting. There was a huge building coming up, lots of workers, the street cut off every now and then, trucks...the usual stuff.

But this is not just another apartment building: it is a hotel. The Crosby Street Hotel.

The Group behind the project is the British Firmsdale Hotels (owners of The Soho, Haymarket, Charlotte Street, Number Sixteen and Knightsbridge hotels in London).

The hotel will have 86 rooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows (think an airy Soho loft) and the usual amenities of a suite in a high-end hotel.

On the ground floor there are a bar (The Crosby Bar) and a lounge with fireplaces (The Drawing Room), as well as a private courtyard (we took some pictures, it is on Lafayette Street and it already looks amazing) with artistic gates of forged steel.

Other amenities include a gym, screening room and a Spa. Also, it aims to be certified Gold Leed by the US Green Building Council (one of the first hotels in New York to do so).

It is scheduled to open on September 29th. We will be there, right on Crosby Street between Spring and Prince... Soho's best address.

Shopping in Buenos Aires, Part 1

2009-09-07T18:16:00.011-04:00

Shopping in Buenos Aires can be an intense experience. The city is big and there are thousands of stores spread out all over.

There are first class antiques and art shops, traditional silversmiths with Old World craftsmanship, polo clothing stores... You will find also design objects, avant-garde fashion and great shopping malls like in New York (Patio Bullrich, Paseo Alcorta, Galerias Pacifico...).
Wine stores, books and of course sweaters and leather goods are everywhere.

From knick-knacks to luxury, it could be an intense but also a fascinating experience. Casual and at the same time sophisticated.

For Women

Jessica Trosman

Avenida Libertador 750 (Recoleta) phone 4814 7411

The queen of fashion in Argentina is called Jessica Trosman. Young and very talented, a mix between a stylist and an intellectual, her place is the only way to go if you want to get a new look that marries tradition and innovation.

Aristocracia
Avenida Arguibel 2867 (Palermo) phone 4772 1144
Accessories, bags and clothes.
An elegant shop with impeccable service. Most of the objects of desire here are designed by Lucrecia Gamundi.

Bakú
Avenida Arguibel 2890 (Palermo) phone 4775 5570
Handbags, belts and leather goods along very particular jewelry made by local artisans. Everything here is reasonably priced.

Mandarine
Libertad 1146 (Recoleta) phone 4811 9840
Get ready for shopping, because this place has an almost infinite array of bags, belts, sandals, and leather boots in every possible shape and color. Everything is made by local artisans. They have two other stores in the city.

Del Buen Ayre
Bolívar 929 phone 4361 4534
Great place for that small gift that will scream Argentina (without spending a lot): small jewelry, accessories, vintage things...Very charming.

Comme Il Faut
Arenales 1239, Rue des Artisans Apt. M (Recoleta) phone 4815 5690,
Great store with a luxurious atmosphere (huge mirrors, Louis XV armchairs and a shocking pink sofa...) And then the shoes. Think Sex and the City.

Mishka
El Salvador 4673 (Palermo Viejo) phone 57776540

Handmade women shoes, boots, sandals and accessories. Think strong colors and innovative and environmentally friendly materials. A little particular in taste, it is very easy to fall in love with the whole line. They only sell in Buenos Aires and London.

Un Lugar en el Mundo

Defensa 891 (San Telmo) phone 4362 3836

One of the first addresses you should write down before your trip if you are into vintage clothing. They have an exceptional variety of bags, shoes and accessories from the 60's and 70's

For Men:

Felix
Gurruchaga 1670 (Palermo Viejo) phone 4832 2994
Boutique for men, definitely trendy and with a young clientele. An informal place but with a great personality, with persian rugs on the teak floors and house music pumping from the speakers.
The best? Shetland sweaters, scarves and ties.

Bensimon
Honduras 4876 (Palermo Viejo) , phone 4833 6857
Very cool clothes for men. In a wonderful place with turquoise-painted walls, persian rugs and wood floors we find splendid shirts, sweaters, jackets and accessories.

Hermanos Estebecorena

El Salvador 5960 (Palermo Viejo) phone 4772 2145

Good quality, for the guy in his mid-thirties (but young at heart).

Bolivia

Gurruchaga 1581 (Palermo Viejo) phone 4832 6284

Young and trendy.

Etiqueta Negra

Patio Bullrich Shopping Mall and other locations around town.

High-end and logically expensive, but excellent quality.

Balthazar

Gorriti 5131 (Palermo Viejo) phone 4834 6235

Nice clothes, traditional with a twist. Another location in San Telmo.

Puntos en el Espacio
Perú 979 (San Telmo) phone 4307 1742
A store in which to get men and women clothes, shoes and accessories of good quality at an affordable price. It is difficult to spend over a hundred dollars, and impossible not to buy at least one thing.

Casa López (men and women)

Marcelo T. de Alvear 640 (Downtown) phone 4312 8911

Handmade leather goods. Jackets, clothing, shoes and accessories. Great quality. There is another store in Patio Bullrich Shopping Mall in Recoleta. Very classic.

Everything for polo:
El Boyero (Florida 953 - phone 4312 3564).
With the exception of the horse, you will find absolutely everything for the sport here (or only the clothes if you are just after the look): leather goods, saddles, boots and gaucho knives.

Pasión Argentina (Ravignani 1780 - phone 4777 7550)

You can breathe tradition in this place (think farmers and their ponchos...)Clothes are classic with a modern twist. Worth a visit.

Bookstores and Art Galleries:

El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Avenida Santa Fe 1860 (Barrio Norte) phone 4811 6104
A true reader's Paradise. El Ateneo is the most famous bookstore in town.Located in a former theather where Carlos Gardel used to perform, it offers thousand of books in a magical setting (don't miss the murals on the ceiling). The stage is nowadays a great coffee shop.

You can read more here.

Wussmann Gallery
Venezuela 574 (San Telmo) phone 4343 4707 One of the best art galleries in town, specialized in Contemporary Art.

If you need something for your house (you never know), this is our choice:

Buenos Aires Design
Av. Pueyrredón 2501 (Recoleta), phone 5777 6000
Everything for that remodeling project. All the big names are here: Eugenio Aguirre, Cortes, Barugel Azulay, Iluminación Agüero, Kalpakian...a real who's who in the world of construction and home furnishings in Argentina. All in one convenient place. This is where we shop for our projects in Buenos Aires.

And this is it, at least for now. Also, please remember, stores open and close all the time. Always call ahead before going.

Also, there are some posts coming up about hotels and, by popular request, tango.

Little Old New York

2009-09-05T10:00:00.009-04:00

Do you ever get the feeling you've traveled back in time? Oh well, we do.

It happens to us every time we visit our Stationer's shop, Bowne & Co. And after we close the door behind us and our eyes adjust to the dark and mysterious interior, we are sure it is not 2009 anymore. It is somewhere around 1870. Maybe 1865?

They use letterpresses that were new in 1844. With this museum quality equipment Robert Warner and his team make the most fascinating cards and stationery we ever saw.

The text is composed by hand using historic antique type collections. Afterwards, they print on original 19th century treadle-powered platen presses (thanks Robert for this information!). It is an honor to be able to watch these artisans at work. And a privilege to be able to enjoy our stationery the way we do.

Bowne & Co. is located at 211 Water Street - South Street Seaport

(212) 748-8651

Higher learning

2009-09-04T20:16:00.010-04:00

Cooper Union has probably one of the most fantastic buildings in Manhattan.

We took these photographs yesterday after a long walk down the Bowery. The building is almost ready, and honestly it looks amazing. Designed by Morphosis, it will become one of those buildings you never forget.

Who knew that going to school could be so funky?

Tapas, 24

2009-09-03T04:29:00.003-04:00

We know Barcelona is full of fantastic places to eat. There are many well known and creative chefs, making every visit to the city a real treat.

One of these famous chefs is Carles Abellán. He opened a tapas restaurant on Carrer Diputación near Passeig de Gràcia. Small space, with a great outdoor seating.

This place is not your typical tapas bar – although the menus on each table are written on little black boards like in many other places, the food is really one step above the rest.

Croquetes de Pernil Ibèric (Iberian ham croquettes), patatas bravas (fried potatoes with alioli and a spicy pepper sauce), “Ous Estrellats al Gust” (fried eggs with potatoes and chorizo) and our favourite, the Bikini Comerç 24 (a grilled ham and cheese sandwich with truffle oil).

Every time we visit, we keep coming back for more.

L'affaire du Grand Hotel

2009-09-02T18:12:00.031-04:00

Bariloche, 1935. The great Argentine Architect Alejandro Bustillo won a competition to design a Grand Hotel in the brand new National Park Nahuel Huapi. The idea was to attract wealthy tourists to this desolate location in Patagonia.

Three years later the Hotel was finished. More than 5,000 trees were chopped to be used in the construction of the building, entirely made of wood and stone. The level of comfort was unbelievable for the time: a Bank, a Post office, a Pharmacy, telegraph and a golf course. The grand opening was on New Year's Eve, 1938.

In 1939 the building was completely destroyed by a devastating fire. Rebuilt in a record one year, it became a symbol of winter holidays for years to come. The team in charge of the reconstruction included Jean-Michel Frank along Alejandro Bustillo. Frank was living in Argentina at the time and was in charge of the interiors as well as the design of furniture and lamps.

The hotel was closed in 1979 and was completely abandoned for years. Sold in 1993 to a private Group, it was revamped and once again became the Grand Hotel it was meant to be.

Abasto, cradle of Tango

2009-09-02T12:31:00.014-04:00

There is a particular building in Buenos Aires that means a lot to tango lovers: the Abasto Market and the neighbourhood around it.

This former wholesale fruit and vegetable market became a shopping mall in 1999. The unbelievable Art Deco facade and structure were (thankfully!) mostly preserved.

The area is where Carlos Gardel lived most of his life. He is indeed the most important icon in the history of Tango. His name embodies the essence of it.

For tango lovers, a trip to Buenos Aires is not complete without a visit to the Abasto and a look at the statue of Carlitos...

He is still hanging out, as usual, in front of HIS market.

Frank Gehry, or the making of an Instant Landmark

2009-09-01T12:43:00.015-04:00

We stopped by today at Beekman Tower, the 76-story rental designed by Frank Gehry across the street from City Hall, and decided to take some photographs.

It is an imposing structure indeed. And with those steels panels flowing and gleaming under the sun, we felt really impressed. This is a spectacular addition to that skyline that made New York famous all over, designed by one the best Architects in the world.

There will be also a school at its base with 800 students, so the changes in the neighbourhood are without questions happening (a much needed upgrade!). You can take a look at amazing renderings of the finished project here.

Rebuilding Downtown, one masterpiece at the time.

Punta del Este, on the rocks

2009-08-31T09:53:00.002-04:00

The JHSF group from Brazil (think Fasano hotels in Sao Paulo an Rio plus the some of the biggest Real Estate developments in Brazil) bought an astounding 480 hectares (around 1,200 acres) five miles from La Barra.

They commissioned very well known Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld to design the Las Piedras Villas & Hotel Fasano, their first beach-and-country development in Uruguay. The property will have 205 one-to-five bedrooms villas, spa, Boat house, tennis and polo fields and a private beach, plus the Fasano hotel gastronomy and services, such as housekeeping and concierge.

All the Hotel amenities (20 bungalows, bar, restaurant, spa and pool bar) will be ready for the summer 2009/2010 (summer in Uruguay means December through March).

We cannot wait!

More information? Contact astrid@think-argentina.com.ar for details

A house like me

2009-08-28T20:05:00.002-04:00

Villa Malaparte, in Capri, must be one of the most amazing houses on this planet.

South Street Seaport, getting there.

2009-08-28T13:40:00.013-04:00

How to make the perfect pied-à-terre for a couple working in finance?

We thought it might be interesting to show you a renovation which is almost finished. The apartment was built in 1984 and everything was still original (bathroom fixtures and cheap parquet floors included).

We upgraded the look with custom cabinetry and paneling in the hallway to add drama. Also the kitchen cabinets were replaced with fine Italian cabinetry from Canova .

So, we wanted to show a project before it is photographed professionally, so you can get a behind the scenes look.

The apartment is almost there, but not yet.

Rogelio Polesello, Master of Color

2009-08-27T04:38:00.002-04:00

We visited Rogelio Polesello in his atelier in Buenos Aires a few months ago. The impressive space (over 5,000 square feet) is split into different levels overlooking two quiet streets in Belgrano, a residential neighbourhood not far from Palermo Viejo.

It is an overwhelming experience not only for the quantity and quality of the objects displayed, but also for the amount of Art present in every single room. His own paintings and sculptures as well as work from other artists, lots of furniture and lamps (Frank Gehry, Gae Aulenti, Eames, Corbusier, Magistretti...they are all here) plus a collection of pre-columbian artifacts and two million magazines on a staircase, along with a statue of Carlos Gardel (yes, the tango singer).

Polesello is indeed a versatile and extremely talented artist, mastering the work in Plexiglas sculptures (mainly from the 70's) as well as painting and murals (pioneering Op Art in Latin America).

He is a fascinating and complex person, and his private space is as individual and unique as he is. A true Maestro!

Kitchen Symphony

2009-08-26T09:00:00.005-04:00

There is nothing more hypnotic than staring at a chef when he is working in his kitchen while his restaurant is packed.

Lots of people moving fast. Heat, speed, knives, flames...with one person in charge, the director of the orchestra. The director of this culinary symphony is George Mendes. And Aldea is his restaurant.

And it is playing an ode to Portugal, in a very New York kind of way. We loved this restaurant with its open kitchen. People can see everything that happens as the staff prepares meals—especially our meal!

As if there wasn’t enough stress in a restaurant kitchen!

Buenos Aires restaurants: our picks

2009-08-25T00:25:00.002-04:00

We are always asked, when people go to Buenos Aires, where to eat. That is a tricky question, because it is always a personal point of view.

But there are some general guidelines. First, and most important, avoid touristy places. It sounds easy but it is not. Thanks to some publications and a lot of international tourists, apparently there are some places not to miss (places where locals go, generally for good meat).

So, more and more tourists start going to this restaurants. Therefore prices raise. Therefore locals don't go there anymore. Then these places for locals become places for tourists!

Our choices for locals are:

Miranda Meat and pastas in Palermo Viejo.

Oui Oui Excelent! Informal brunches are the best.

Olsen - Gorriti 5870 Phone 4776-7677 Scandinavia meets South America

Bar Uriarte Mediterranean cuisine - Brick oven great for meats and fish.

Grappa - El Salvador 5802 Phone 4899-2577 Ultra-thin crust pizzas

Bereber - Armenia 1880 Phone 4833-5662 Moroccan cuisine. Great terrace.

Almacen Secreto The real deal with authentic argentine dishes. Fantastic!

Dominga - Honduras 5618 Phone 4771-4443 Mediterranean plus sushi.

Museo Evita - J.M. Gutierrez 3926 Phone 4800-1599

Croque Madame - Av Libertador 1902 Phone 4806-8639 - Great for outdoor meals in a chic Museum

Fervor Great seafood barbecue and meats. The best choice in Recoleta.

We think this is a good start! Have fun and remember to go for dinner after 9 PM or you will dine alone.

Downtown locals

2009-08-24T16:44:00.002-04:00

The Financial District is one of our favourite neighbourhoods in the city. Walking down the narrow streets we can still see the fantastic buildings from the 20's and 30's and even before, like the Delmonico's restaurant or some other examples of the 1900's still around.

The city is always changing though, and some newcomers are joining the area. William Beaver House (the most ambitious project of Andre Balazs in New York) is one of them. We walked by today, and it seems is almost finished.

There are many apartment conversions in the area, so we are happy to see that the neighbourhood is becoming residential once again. Like it was a long time ago, at the very beginning.

Jungle fever

2009-08-24T01:13:00.000-04:00

We discovered Don Enrique lodge through friends. It is a small, family-run place with only three rooms in the middle of the Argentine rain forest, in a place where roads do not exist and where TV or telephones are nowhere to be found. To get there you go to Iguazu from Buenos Aires, and then a three hour drive through the Province of Misiones.

Don Enrique sits over a small river near the Mocona Falls, and it really is in the middle of the Monte, as they call the rain forest here.

You can wander through the trails they opened through the jungle (this means, for instance,
crossing streams of water ankle deep) so you can get in touch with the environment and learn about plants and animals that live there. There is also the option of a two hour boat excursion

visiting the Mocona Falls. The falls are longitudinal to the river rather than transversal like the rest of the waterfalls...totally unusual.

If you get tired with all these activities, there is always the possibility of doing absolutely nothing but sitting on a porch and enjoy the silence.

Fuerza Bruta: LOOK UP!!!

2009-08-21T12:15:00.013-04:00

We went to see this show a few weeks ago. It is not really a play, it is not theater, it is mind blowing effects, it is people flying, it is a pool suspended inches above our heads with people swimming in it , it is music, it is a PARTY!

There was a man on a giant treadmill smashing through moving walls. There were two people in desperate need to touch and connect from opposite sides of a moving sail...And more music, from house to club beats to chill out.

We couldn't believe what we experienced. It was a mix of jumping, dancing, sweating, laughing... we felt we were part of some sort of ancient tribal rite. And it felt so good!

Chelsea Blues

2009-08-21T06:57:00.000-04:00

We stumbled upon this building the other night while walking in Chelsea. The glass facade is fractured into a sort of origami folds...a faceted box clad in blueish glass gleaming under the New York sunset...

See music

2009-08-20T11:05:00.006-04:00

He sees music.

He paints music, living music, feeling music. U2, the Chili Peppers, Beethoven, Jimmy Hendrix, Maria Callas...

His story has drama. He was a Uruguayan banker working in Argentina who one day suddenly realized that he was living a life that he hated. So he threw out his suit, put on his bandana and became a painter.

Of course a lot of things happened to him in Argentina before he relocated to New York where his final transformation occurred. In New York the past didn't matter and there he savored the life he wanted, with his music, his woman and his art. And what a great life he got! One hundred percent Art, the quintessential artist, a bohemian life full of adrenaline, late nights meeting hundreds of people, recognition, selling many, many of his paintings... Great Commisions! …... Manhattan was his place in the world.

Who is he? His name is Gonzalo Papantonakis.

Honey Rider

2009-08-20T10:53:00.006-04:00

We are thrilled to anounce that our friend Ursula Andress has been named the ultimate 'Bikini Goddess' in a new poll of British women conducted to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the bikini.

Congratulations Honey!

The hidden garden of Francis Coppola

2009-08-19T13:08:00.039-04:00

After having brunch at Oui Oui (our favorite restaurant in the area) we walked down the charming streets of Palermo Viejo in Buenos Aires and watched the world go by.

This neighbourhood has been transformed (in the past 15 years or so) from working-class residential into a hip area full of restaurants, bars, boutiques and hotels.

Despite the transformation most of the buildings are original, one or two stories high. There are lots of trees, and blue sky unlike anywhere else.

During our walk we stumbled upon Jardin Escondido (Francis Coppola's house). A romantic place, seven rooms, patios, pergolas, plants... Mr Coppola lets people stay there when he is not in Buenos Aires. Inside it is like stepping back in time, to a slower time, in which life was enjoyed around a communal table in the garden, with family and friends...with plenty of food and wine.

Keep this place in mind next time you are heading South.

In the mood for Art

2009-08-19T09:59:00.022-04:00

After leaving the South of France and spending some years working in finance in Paris, London and New York, Diane finally answered the call from her heart. That meant painting.

She learnt, she practiced, she found her style, she had shows, and then she sold. The process was (and still is) long and hard, but she never stops...the rewards are so fulfilling.

We attended most of her shows in London, Argentina and of course New York. We follow her closely, and we see collectors coming back for more, show after show.

Tonight we are going to Chelsea, because we are in the mood for Art.

Bringing back La Belle Epoque

2009-08-18T21:00:00.005-04:00

A long time ago Argentina was a wealthy country. Wheat and cattle made the landowners rich beyond description. And that wealth made them travel the world. Of course, the "world" back then was only Europe. Specifically France, considered the place to look for inspiration when it was time to dress, talk, or build. They went and they loved it.

Meanwhile back in Argentina, the Argentines craved living in a city like Paris. The only problem was Buenos Aires was not as sophisticated as Paris. The solution? Tear down the simpler, Spanish style buildings and rebuild, in a French grandiose style. So they built their townhouses, real palaces in some cases, new public buildings, new avenues...everything was magnificent, everything was tres French. And so the cliche "Paris of South America" was born. Oh, La Belle Epoque!

A hundred years later, we see some of those magnificent buildings still around, especially in Recoleta. One of these buildings, a fantastic brownstone (they called them "petit hotels") was sold a few years ago. It was covered for a long time with a scaffolding net with a banner on it. We feared the worst.

But like in a film in which the ending is so good you cannot believe it, once the net was removed we were thrilled to see that nothing happened to the outside of the building. It was the same, only polished and lovingly restored to its former glory.

This building has become Algodon Mansion, a hotel soon to open. The interiors look really glamorous, cosmopolitan, exclusive. With only ten rooms, it almost feels like a private club in London or any international capital. It has a Spa, a restaurant, and the Rooftop a pool like no one else has in Buenos Aires. The architects in charge of the renovation, Heusch Inc., are well known for an impeccable taste. The developers behind this great idea have even bigger, more ambitious projects in Mendoza, the wine region.

We cannot wait for the opening this November. Think, Polo season, warm weather, Buenos Aires is a party. The right time for bringing back La Belle Epoque.